All Locations > International > Europe > France > 04 Northern Alps > Chamonix Mont B… > Aiguilles Rouges > Le Brévent

Retour a Bretagne

Name: Retour a Bretagne
Rating: 4.0

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Le Brévent

L › R R › L A › Z

	Crakoukass S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Ex Libris T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	La Fin de Babylone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	La Piste Oubliée S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	La Somone S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Label Virginie, 250m, 5c, Plan Praz / Brevent S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	New Piola Route S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Poeme a Lou S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Premier de Corvée T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Retour a Bretagne T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Voie Frison-Roche S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type:	Trad, 460 ft (139 m), 4 pitches
FA:	T Renault 2018
Page Views:	332 total · 19/month
Shared By:	Brent Shaffer on Aug 16, 2023
Admins:	Bogdan Petre, David Riley, Luc-514 Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

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Description

Climb a huge corner in 3 pitches to a giant ledge shared with Frison-Roche, and top out on a beautiful widening hand-crack, This is a great option if there's a line on Ex Libris (as there was for us).

1st Pitch (35m): Climb a loose corner with questionable rock quality. Be careful when pulling on blocks. Two bolts near the top on the right side, before a two-bolt anchor. 5.10a

2nd Pitch (40m): Continue up the giant corner on much better quality rock with good pro. This is a long and sustained pitch, but as most routes in the Alps, was still soft for the grade. Finish on an obvious ledge to the right at another two-bolt anchor. 5.10b

3rd Pitch (25m): continue up a bolted line on the face rather than continuing up the corner with all the loose rock. This will then traverse left onto the bigger ledge and cross with Frison-Roche. No pro necessary on this one, just 7 bolts to another two-bolt anchor underneath the striking crack to the right of the Frison-Roche bolted corner crack.

4th Pitch (30m): Start on a thin crack that gets wider as it goes over a bulge and continues to the top of Le Brevent. Wow, real crack climbing! This pitch is amazing, but save some big stuff or prepare to get creative with your gear for the second half. A final two bolt anchor rewards you at the top.

From the top you can walk directly to the tram. Good job!

Location

The first corner up and left from Frison-Roche. Hike to the start of Frison-Roche, scramble up the left gully (3rd class) to the first obvious corner. There's a fixed line at the bottom, and to the left is a bolt line.