Type: Trad, Alpine, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches
FA: FFA: Matt Reeser & Justen Sjong, August 9th, 2023
Page Views: 937 total · 44/month
Shared By: Justen Sjong on Aug 14, 2023
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Warning Access Issue: 2024 - road closure DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This striking line snakes up the arete to the right of Road Warrior. This line has three independent pitches before it climbs into the top of Road Warrior & Good Evans. All three pitches climb on the arete, but each pitch provides a unique flavor. 

Pitch 1 (13b/c) is about 100' long with the crux guarding the anchor. On this pitch, we used a #1 & #0.5 C4 with runners down low then clipped bolts until we reached the 2 bolt anchor on the left side of the arete. This pitch is your classic, knifeblade arete.

Pitch 2 (12c) is about 130' long with an engaging start that leads into a dihedral arete section then finishes with a face section. Bring 16 draws plus a #0.75 Z4 with a runner for the last piece of protection to a two bolt anchor on the right side on a small ledge.

Pitch 3 (12d) is about 70' long that has steep blocky arete climbing with a few interesting boulder problems and finishes at a 2 bolt anchor on the left side of the arete.

Pitch 4 (10+) is about 100' long. Climb left off the anchor, and you can use small gear to protect in the wide section. This part of the offwidth has a lot of face relief which makes it enjoyable climbing. Bring runners, large nuts, & a single set of cams from #0.1 Z4 to #3 C4.  NOTE:  You might notice a bolted 4th pitch which is currently a closed project that is red tagged.  Our goal is to bring this line up one more arete pitch then head into Good Evans.

Pitch 5 (5.6) is about 50' long. Bring a few pieces of gear including the #1 & #2 C4 for the anchor on the summit.

Location Suggest change

Do 3+ rappels with a 70 meter rope down the standard decent, then make your way around the corner to Cannonball Corner and Undertow, and build an anchor with a #0.2, 0.3, and 0.4 Z4s.

Protection Suggest change

16 draws, and a few of them should be alpine runners. Bring a few large nuts and single set of cams from #0.1 to #3 C4.

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