Type: | Trad, Alpine, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | FFA: Matt Reeser & Justen Sjong, August 9th, 2023 |
Page Views: | 937 total · 44/month |
Shared By: | Justen Sjong on Aug 14, 2023 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This striking line snakes up the arete to the right of Road Warrior. This line has three independent pitches before it climbs into the top of Road Warrior & Good Evans. All three pitches climb on the arete, but each pitch provides a unique flavor.
Pitch 1 (13b/c) is about 100' long with the crux guarding the anchor. On this pitch, we used a #1 & #0.5 C4 with runners down low then clipped bolts until we reached the 2 bolt anchor on the left side of the arete. This pitch is your classic, knifeblade arete.
Pitch 2 (12c) is about 130' long with an engaging start that leads into a dihedral arete section then finishes with a face section. Bring 16 draws plus a #0.75 Z4 with a runner for the last piece of protection to a two bolt anchor on the right side on a small ledge.
Pitch 3 (12d) is about 70' long that has steep blocky arete climbing with a few interesting boulder problems and finishes at a 2 bolt anchor on the left side of the arete.
Pitch 4 (10+) is about 100' long. Climb left off the anchor, and you can use small gear to protect in the wide section. This part of the offwidth has a lot of face relief which makes it enjoyable climbing. Bring runners, large nuts, & a single set of cams from #0.1 Z4 to #3 C4. NOTE: You might notice a bolted 4th pitch which is currently a closed project that is red tagged. Our goal is to bring this line up one more arete pitch then head into Good Evans.
Pitch 5 (5.6) is about 50' long. Bring a few pieces of gear including the #1 & #2 C4 for the anchor on the summit.
Location
Do 3+ rappels with a 70 meter rope down the standard decent, then make your way around the corner to Cannonball Corner and Undertow, and build an anchor with a #0.2, 0.3, and 0.4 Z4s.
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