Type: Trad, 215 ft (65 m), 3 pitches
FA: Nick McNutt, Jack Fieldhouse, 2021
Page Views: 768 total · 36/month
Shared By: Adrian Suskauer on Aug 10, 2023
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description Suggest change

This is a fun, fairly casual approach/warm-up for the harder climbs at Zen. 

Pitch 1: Climb a slabby corner to a bolt (shared start with Gatekeeper, 5.10b), and pull over the corner to a sweet finger rail that connects the corner with a short hand crack. Bolted belay. The FA party called this 5.7, but my partner and I both found it stiff for that grade.

Pitch 2: The money. Jam up the hand-and-fist crack in a corner to a bolted anchor on a ledge.

Pitch 3: Move the belay around the corner to the base of the bolted slab, then smear your way up this short pitch. 7 bolts, no trad gear needed. This will place you at the bottom of the Zen Garden proper, below Half Lotus.

The route can be rappelled with a 60, but it is likely to become a fairly busy area, particularly since Gatekeeper shares the start--walking off is preferred. The descent trail is visible to your left when you top out. Alternatively, hike up to the fantastic cragging that awaits above!

Location Suggest change

Hike the tourist trail to just before the upper viewpoint of Shannon Falls. Find a side trail (heeding signs where posted not to hike directly up from the viewpoint) that climbs steeply up the hill; look for a black fixed rope in a rootbound gully. The first pitch starts right above this.

Protection Suggest change

Gear to 4

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