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The Howler

5.11a/b, Trad, Alpine, 660 ft (200 m), 6 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Stephen Senecal, Aaron Harris Aug 30, 2019
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Kootenays > W Kootenay > Slocan Valley > Valhalla Mountains > Wolfs Ears

Description

This is a fun, modern, mixed route that was developed ground up. 

Pitch 1  5.7  30m    Climb out of the right side of the cave to a ledge with a small tree.  Climb up from the right side of the ledge with good pro to the slab above.  Climb easily up the slab to a large boulder strewn ledge and a 2 bolt anchor in line with your original belay.

Alternatively you could scramble up and across the gully to the same big ledge but it’s wet and awkward.  

Pitch 2  5.11b  35m    Move the belay 7m right of the bolted anchor to the base of a right facing corner.  Look for the bolt high above you.  Climb up the corner and to 2 spaced bolts above.  Clip bolts and trend left into a left trending roof.   Pull the roof at its end to a stance and a hidden bolt. Make a tricky move into another left trending roof and a final crux move (bolt) to a good ledge and 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 3   5.10d  28m    Pull a tricky move above the belay to an open book corner. Climb up and through a bulge to a bolt and a stance.  Climb boldly up and right to stacked pillars and a 2 bolt belay below a roof.

Pitch 4   5.11a  30m    Traverse left along the wide crack (dirty, chossy, easy) towards a cave.  At the cave step right onto blocky terrain.  Climb up onto the slab above, clipping 2 bolts.  Continue up the slab to a thin crack (pin).  Crank through techy moves clipping another bolt and passing a big scary flake to a great ledge and 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 5  5.10b  30m    Climb up the left facing corner and under the big chock stone (cool!) until it’s possible to move left and climb cracks on the face.  Climb back right through a bulge to a good ledge and 2 bolt belay.

Pitch 6  5.8  20m    Continue up the left facing corner until it’s possible to move right into another left facing corner.  Climb this to a large ledge with a bolt and sling belay. Scramble to the summit!  

Descent    6 single rope rappels down the route will get you back to the base of the route.  On pitch 5 rap on the outside of the chockstone.  Some of the raps are long and will use most of your 60m rope,  tie knots in the end. 

Location

From the base of the west Wolf's Ear, continue traversing east to the deep gully between the west and east Wolf's Ears.  To the right of the gully is a shallow cave.  This is the start of pitch one and a decent place to stash gear.

Protection

1x set of cams from green C3 to #4 Camalot, 2x set from 0.3 to #2 Camalot. Nuts. 12-14 draws. 60m rope, tagline if you want to haul.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Howler (East Wolfs Ear) Overview
[Hide Photo] The Howler (East Wolfs Ear) Overview
Aaron Harris on Pitch 2 (crux)
[Hide Photo] Aaron Harris on Pitch 2 (crux)