North Ridge
5.0 YDS 2- French 4 Ewbanks I UIAA 6 ZA MM 1c British
Type: | Trad, 2000 ft (606 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 486 total · 21/month |
Shared By: | Chris Owen on Aug 5, 2023 |
Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Jack Copland |
Description
One of the best scrambles in North Wales up a true rock peak ending at a classic summit.
The route involves a steep approach up steps, heather slopes then scree, there is a trail or two you can follow, so no cross-country travel is required. Follow the left side of the wall to the sty (do not cross over), then follow the trail left past the rock walls and up the scree, keep avoiding the walls to the left until you can easily start traversing/scrambling rightwards to gain, more or less, the crest of the ridge (about 1000 feet of elevation gain from the road to here).
Try to stay on the broad crest of the ridge now, rock steps are easily scrambled and don't forget to look right for the Cannon Stone, a popular landmark which can be easily missed.
The ridge levels off before the ominous looking North Summit section. Scrambling up this is the crux and can involve class 5 moves with fall consequences, it's best to follow a weakness to the left of the toe of the buttress, descend from the North Summit, pass over the top of the North Gully and a final bit of easy scrambling will see you on the true summit.
Be sure to do the jump from Adam to Eve if conditions permit.
There are various descents, the south ridge to the col is probably best, from there either west or east, if going east you can exit a nasty loose gully/slope by a trail which leads you down the Heather Terrace.
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