Type: Trad, Alpine, 850 ft (258 m), 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jim Pace and Brady Johnson
Page Views: 243 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jim Pace on Aug 3, 2023
Admins: Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

One of two excellent routes on the Rabbit Ears Formation

P1 5.7   Climb good rock to the left of the dike to a small tree at the dike.

P2 5.8   Climb dike to large ledge move left to large tree and better rock anchor and belay.

P1 and P2 may be combined, 60m

P3 5.9 Pull the boulder move off the ledge then 5.9 thru the roof.

P4 5.9 boulder finger crack to belay at the granddaddy tree and ledge

P3 and P4 may be combined, 60m

P5 5.8 classic chimney/ dihedral to ledge

P6 5.6 ramble to up to broken chimney

P5 and P6 may be combined, 60m

P7 5.7 Climb blocky gully to the lower col

P8 5.8 Classic hand crack on the east side of tower to upper col 40m

P9 5.9 Classic summit block hands and fingers 20m

P8 and P9 may be combined, 60m

Descent:  Down climb to fixed anchor 2m below summit.  A 60m rappel down to a large tree in the east gully.  4 more 60m rappels off large trees will bring you to the base. On the descent we came across evidence of past climbers; a cam and a piton used for rappels, apparently on a thwarted attempt at Litner Peak.

Location Suggest change

1/4 mile uphill to the north from camp at the outlet of Ship Island Lake.

Protection Suggest change

Gear: single set of cams to #3, Half set of stoppers. Summit does not have gear. There is fixed gear .5m below the summit and a rappel station 2m below the summit.

Photos

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