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> New S Wales
> Blue Mountains
> Blackheath Area
> Shipley Upper
Language of Desire
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in Shipley Upper
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A Streaker Named Desire S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Answer is Obvious, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bandoline Grip, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Burning Jowls S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Country Special S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flaming Flamingo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Girly Germs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Good Fortune S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hold on to Your Hats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hot Flyer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Jack High S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Language of Desire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lardy Lady's Lats S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Nude Tuesday S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Original Hot Flyer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pallets of Pies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Pompadour S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Scramble Syndrome S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stormy Monday S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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These Dogs are Whippets S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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These People are Sandwiches S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Trinity S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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War Babies S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 82 ft (25 m) |
| FA: | M Scheel, C Martin 1985 |
| Page Views: | 145 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Matthew Clawson on Aug 1, 2023 |
| Admins: | Matthew Clawson, Dan Flynn |
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Description
Shares the same start as "A Streaker Named Desire" on a bit of a muddy clearing with a rail tie at the start. Where streaker will go right at the third bolt , this route goes straight up the face. Climbing is delicate up to the 5th bolt, where you trend slightly left to a resonably sized ledgey mantle. Clip the 6th bolt and screw your head on tight; relatively easy but runout climbing can be protected by a small to medium sized cam or by clipping an alpine draw to an adjacent route (Sexy When Wet). Trend upwards and right to a line of fixed hangers (all bolts until this point are glue ins) and follow this to the lip.
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