Waltz Right In

Climbs fairly directly up the center of the north west face of North Nesakwatch Spire. Rock is solid granite, peppered with the occasional loose block and rubble on ledges - typical of alpine climbs. This will clean up more as traffic increases. The granite at Nesakwatch spires cleaves, forming perfect splitter cracks. Pitch 4 begins with 30m of a splitter, red camelot hand crack.   

Belays are all trad anchors. The #4 is used at belay top of pitch 5.

Pitch Descriptions

1. 5.10a, 30m. Ascend up onto a small ledge, diagonal up right in a corner crack to a ledge. Place #2 or #3 cam extended before big step left using cool face jugs at head height. Climb thin finger crack on left. Eases off 15ft up. Mantle up a small ledge with a dead tree then up a crack to big belay ledge. 
2. 5.7, 35m. Diagonal up right on mossy ramp. Bit runout here but easy smearing. About 7m up, step left into a layback crack system. Up this to a small ledge on top. Continue up crack to slab. Easy slab diagonals up right through bushes. Belay above in a crack.
3. 3rd/4th 50m. Continue diagonal right, up through heather and boulder steps. Aim for an alcove/corner area with several cracks rising up. 
4. 5.8, 40m. A laser cut crack on the left (kinda in a right facing corner) rises up. Keep your #1's to protect the crack. A wide section above has easy feet and protects in the back with small gear. Follow crack features rightward to a belay at the base of a prominent corner..
5. 5.9, 35m. Climb the prominent corner crack on the right. Another splitter crack in a left facing corner. At a small roof, step right on face holds around the roof and up the shallow arete above slightly left. Zig right then back left across a ledge to a small right corner crack. Continue up this to a great little belay ledge. The #4 and #3 are useful to belay behind a giant flake. 
6. 5.10a, 35m. Straight up, face climbing a wavy left facing feature. Pro is tricky so take it down low to protect the crux above. Fun face holds lead to a small stance. Follow the left facing layback crack. Finish with a short 15ft offwidth section to the summit. Belay on a big summit ledge. There's a thread between 2 big boulders 5ft back and #1 cam just to the right.   

See topo in pictures.

Descent:

Down climb 4th class blocks southeast from the main summit. Look for the worn dirt trail between boulders and talus below. The trail quickly wraps south, diagonal down the east side of the south ridge to the col. From the low point in the col (cairns?) drop west on 4th/low 5th class ledges. Directly below the point in the col where you descend is a prominent ledge that looks like a bivi site. From here, move right down ledges, down climbing steps. Two rap stations exist. You can rap with 1 x 60m rope from the upper rap block to the ground. 

Located in the center of the north west face of North Nesakwatch Spire. Approach either directly up from the trail on steep dirt slopes or traverse in high from the bivi areas to the south. The main trail into the area comes up into the talus field directly under this face.