Type: Sport, 130 ft (39 m)
FA: JD LeBlanc, 2019
Page Views: 156 total · 10/month
Shared By: Rhys Beaudry on Jul 31, 2023
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Start up the slightly ugly and gravely overhang on generally decent holds (very pumpy). Pull out of the overhang onto the vertical headwall with much higher quality rock. Cruisy climbing with intermittent no-hands or no-hands-ish rests brings you to final rest stance before a steeper overhang. Move quickly through the overhang (lot's of good holds, less good intermediates available) and mantle out - one more bolt of easy climbing to the chains!

Note; a 70 m rope does not get you to the ground, but there are a pair of permas that you can go in straight to and pull your rope from. 

A secondary note; JD spent 3 days cleaning the bottom of the pitch, highly recommended to stay on the chalk stains where possible. 

Location Suggest change

There is a line of bolts that goes up the chossy pillar that generally separates the Sea of Holes wall from The Junction - this is "Bucking Horse". Old School starts just above the dirt/rock platform, left of Bucking Horse. Look for a bolt a few meters above the slab ledge in the overhang. 

Protection Suggest change

21 bolts, fixed anchor with biners

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