Type: Boulder
GPS: 41.8975, -71.42989
FA: unknown
Page Views: 239 total · 8/month
Shared By: James Fontaine on Jul 30, 2023
Admins: M Sprague, Jamie Re, Joe M

You & This Route


6 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

This line seems too obvious to not have been done before but the slab is quite mossy so it definitely doesn't see a lot of action and I haven't seen a reference to this problem anywhere. Thankfully most of the crimps don't have moss directly on them so the boulder didn't need much cleaning but I'd be careful with smearing. If anyone knows a historical name/grade for this problem, please let me know and I'll update the post.

Really happy with how the problem turned out - it ended up feeling a grade or two harder than I expected. I tried to grade the problem based on the other existing problems on this boulder - it felt a lot more challenging than Sweet Dreams/Arête Dreaming to me but definitely not as hard as Dream Time so V3 felt right. There is still an opportunity for a lower sit start, keeping the right hand where it is but using a lower left sidepull instead of the jug - don't think it would up the grade though (unless the starting jug were to be considered completely off for hands and feet). 

Here's my description of the problem: Sit start with right hand on a good sidepull and left hand high on a rounded (but sharp) jug. Make your way up the slab using another good sidepull on the arête and crimps up the face. The good jug up and left of the starting jug is off for hands and feet. The rail jug up high and right on the arête is also off for hands and feet.

Beta Video: youtube.com/watch?v=gduG9Tu…

Location Suggest change

Starts just to the lower left of the left arête of the main Dream Time face of the boulder

Protection Suggest change

1-2 pads - landing is better than most problems on this boulder but there are still some nearby rocks that could do damage if you have an unlucky fall

Photos

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