The First Element
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.8 from 9 votes
Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
FA: | Jake Dickerson (July 2023) |
Page Views: | 533 total · 32/month |
Shared By: | Jake Dickerson on Jul 30, 2023 |
Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Description
Immaculate pitch on "French" quality limestone on par with the good stuff at The Grail and the Wailing Wall. This is the first route established at the cliff after a seriously epic bolting adventure. The route follows a faint right trending seam then up the tallest cleanest section of the cliff via perfect crimps, pockets, and pinches.
The first 3 bolts climb nice incut edges and sidepulls to a rest at a mini ledge. Follow the right trending seam feature for three more bolts of surprisingly pumpy climbing before you fully transfer onto the grey streak.
The first crux involves some long reaches on small edges which lead to a few cool pockets that you can get a quick rest. Then the final redpoint crux comes right before the last bolt with a long/balancy move to and from a slopey pinch. Gain the two nice edges and you "should" clip the chains.
Awesome pitch!
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