Type: Trad, 440 ft (133 m), 6 pitches
FA: Ben Hubbard, Michal Rynkiewicz
Page Views: 2,201 total · 101/month
Shared By: Ben jamin on Jul 24, 2023
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

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Description Suggest change

A long incredible route following the path of least resistance up the right side of the Upper Town Wall. This route features 6 varied technical pitches where you quest through unique geological features on mostly bomb-proof rock with sustained moderate climbing. The crux pitch features a ~25 ft section of 5.11 that can be easily aided making the route go at 5.10+/5.11a C1 for a fun, relatively moderate day.

Pitch 1 (5.7, ~40 ft): Climb up the short fist/arm crack. Almost every move can be protected with a #3 or #4 (two 4s are nice to have if at your limit). Belay at the bolt above the crack, at the base of the corner, on gear, or sling the Via Ferrata to make an anchor near the corner (probably easiest). This pitch can be easily skipped by following the hand lines to the base of the Via Ferrata.

Pitch 2 (5.10+, ~130 ft): Climb up the long obvious corner through 18 bolts to Madsen's Ledge - don't forget two for the anchor. This pitch is long, sustained, and harder than it looks, but features several great rests to plan your moves out. If you're running out of draws at the end, it should be easy to back clean a couple at the top. 

Pitch 3 (5.10+, ~50 ft): Move the belay ~20 ft left on Madsen's Ledge to the base of a short steep corner crack. Place a cam and climb up the crack (#4 and 0.5 useful) then make an exciting move up onto the ledge (scary but safe with an attentive belay). Once on the ledge, climb up some face moves through two bolts and gear in between to a Thank God hand crack that leads to the end of this pitch.

Pitch 4 (5.11, 80 ft): Starts with a beautiful 5.8 fist crack then slowly increases in difficulty to a series of thin technical balancy moves. Almost all of the 5.11 moves are protected by bolts. Skirt left around the imposing roof and work your way up onto the ledge to finish this pitch near a small tree. 

Pitch 5 (5.8, 50 ft): This short 4-bolt 5.8 pitch is a nice reward after all the hard work on Pitch 4. From the anchor, make a move right and then follow the bolt-line up (don't get suckered too far right) the fin on a couple cool bucket holds. A #2 is nice to have at the ledge after bolt 4 before walking up to the anchor.

Pitch 6 (5.10+, 90 ft): A long, winding pitch. Start in the alcove just to the right of the P4 anchor and work your way up to stand on the obvious hold. A small/offset nut is very nice to have to protect the next move getting to the bolt. Pull on the memorable mono pocket and then work your way up into the sloping right-facing corner/rail. Balance your way up the rail and make a couple thin moves on gear (0.2 useful) to reach a set of bolts and jug holds. Keep working up, placing gear in good pockets (sometimes hard to see - look up and right) until you reach the top. I like to sling a tree at the final crux - a cross-over/step left before reaching the top. 

Location Suggest change

Walk to the base of the Upper Town Wall from the Country. This route begins at a short crack below the Via Ferrata that takes one to Madsen's Ledge. After hiking to the base, walk right - following along the base for 1-2 minutes until you reach a short 5.7 fist crack with a long corner behind it.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles from 0.3 to 3 with 18-20 quick draws. A #4, 0.2, and small nuts are recommended.

Photos

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