Type: Sport, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: Nate Brown, rope solo, Oct. 2020
Page Views: 289 total · 18/month
Shared By: Annie Ashenfelter on Jul 23, 2023 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is an excellent, engaging climb on good rock with several thought-provoking sections.

Halfway up the route there is a mildly confusing choice between two bolts, left and right. The right option keeps a more direct line.

This route ends at a 2 bolt anchor with rap rings, and there are no additional bolts directly above.

Many thanks to the FA(s).

Per nbrown

P1. Start just down and right of Tom’s Travesty at a mini-cave in the boulders Climb a techy face past a couple bolts to easier/ledgy climbing and a few more bolts to gain the steeper wall. Climb the excellent face (was mixed, now entirely bolt-protected) to a belay on a nice ledge at ~ 130’ (at the base of the left-slanting, left-facing dihedral). Gear: ~ 14 bolts and an optional finger-sized cam placement just shy of the ledge (not necessary). 

P2. This is worth climbing only to gain the upper middle headwall pitches. Climb the left facing corners (there are three separated by ledges) to the ledge. Bring a light rack up to a #6 Camalot.

Note: you cannot lower with a 60 meter rope, but you can rap left and downclimb the easy Tom’s Travesty starting ledges. A 70 meter may work. Also, there is a variation, Holy Smoke (5.11) that splits left at bolt 8. To get down from it, rap down and climber's right to this anchor.

Location Suggest change

It is on the left side of the wall between Golden Staircase and Wiffle Ball Bat. Begin between the wall and a giant flake.

Protection Suggest change

14 bolts, a 2 bolt anchor with rap rings, and a 70m rope.

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