The Light In-Between

The Light In-Between follows a steep and sustained line 500 feet from the base of the Ramshorn wall to the apex of the formation. The climbing is outstanding on generally excellent stone, with aspects of steep slab, crack, and techy face climbing. Your crux pitch will likely depend on your preferred style of climbing, and good footwork is rewarded. The pitches are long and well bolted, with two shorter pitches (4 and 6) that can be linked with the previous pitch if you have enough draws (see below). If linking pitches, every lead would be in the 11- range. The belays are generally at a nice ledge or stance, and the route can be rappelled with a single 70m rope.  

Pitch 1: 5.11-, 19 bolts, 36m. Look up to find the massive Ramshorn flake that dominates the main wall. Just to the right of this there is an obvious discontinuous crack system that starts to the right of a small pillar. Climb a sustained pitch to a small stance and belay at chains.

Pitch 2: 5.11-, 12 bolts, 25m. Continue up discontinuous cracks and pods aiming towards a small roof. Navigate the roof on techy holds and belay at a narrow ledge. Take a look to the left to view “The Light In-Between…”

Pitch 3: 5.11-, 17 bolts, 33m.  Another long and sustained pitch of techy climbing brings you to a dirty ledge. You’ll see a set of chains but KEEP GOING left up the ledge (being very careful to avoid dislodging any rock) to belay at a 3-bolt anchor at the top of a broken pillar. 

Pitch 4: 5.9, 5 bolts, 10m. A short pitch allows you to gain an excellent belay in a cool little alcove high on the face. This pitch could be linked with pitch 3 if you bring extra draws, although this may increase rope drag due to the traversing nature at the end of pitch 3. 

Pitch 5: 5.11-, 19 bolts, 35m. Cast out onto the upper headwall by climbing left off the alcove. This enduro pitch passes near the pitch 4 belay anchor of The High Lonesome and continues plumb-line to a set of chains at a small ledge (semi-hanging belay) near the top of the wall. 

Pitch 6: 5.10-, 5 bolts, 15m. Continue up a short pitch to an excellent ledge belay at the apex of the wall. If you wish to avoid the semi-hanging belay below, this pitch can be linked with pitch 5. 

Descent: Rappel the route with a 70m rope. When approaching the pitch 3 anchors, use the chains you passed on the way up (not the 3-bolt anchor at the top of the pillar). Again, be very careful when moving across the ledge at the top of pitch 3 to avoid sending rocks onto climbers below (the large blocks were liberated during development but some smaller rocks continue to remain/appear). 

The start of the route is accessed by scrambling to the shady ledge up and right from the start of The High Lonesome. This ledge is best accessed by hiking below it to the right, and then traversing back left on some easy ledges.