New Piola Route
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Type: | Sport, 750 ft (227 m), 7 pitches |
FA: | Piola, 2019? |
Page Views: | 376 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Dan Gilmour on Jul 11, 2023 |
Admins: | Bogdan Petre, David Riley, Luc-514 |
Description
Newer route on the south face of the Brévent. It starts just left of Fin de Babylone, trends left then goes straight up without traversing under the roof. Follow red glue ins.
P1 (25m, 5.10a). Start just left of Fin de Babylone or and follow the bolt line that meanders left.
P2 (35m, 5.8). More trending left.
P3 (40m, 5.10d). Move left after the belay then go up. Crimpy delicate movement.
P4 (30m, 5.11a). Start with some tricky face climbing moves until you get to the roof. Go through the notch on the left, there's a bolt with a chain for protection but it's hard to see below the roof. Cut right and scramble up to the next belay.
P5 (45m, 5.10c or 5.11b). There are two options for this line, left goes at 10c and right goes at 11b but they meet up later. The 11b goes through two bulges and has a fun sequence with a sloper.
P6 (35m, 5.10c). More vertical face climbing that eases at the top.
P7 (20m, 5.9). Walk left after the belay and scramble to the first bolt, go to the right under a small overhang.
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