Castle Spires--North Arête
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 130 ft (39 m) |
FA: | Wayne Wallace and David Parker, 2004. |
Page Views: | 285 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | emilio Taiveaho Pelaez on Jul 1, 2023 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
The Castle Spires, an agglomerated mass of high sharp points between Needle Pass and Sawtooth Pass, were likely first climbed by Fred and Helmy Beckey in the late 1940s. The fourth edition of the Olympic Mountains a Climbing Guide, lists Neal Jacques, Louis Nothwang, and Roy Smith as the FA party. Either way, these groups likely scrambled the summit from Needle Pass--itself a worthy third class route. The North Face of the spires was climbed in 1964 and given a grade of 5.0.
In 2004, as part of their "Sharpen the Saw: A Complete Traverse of the Sawtooth Ridge" Wayne Wallace and David Parker, attempting to stay as true to the NE direction of the ridge as possible, climbed the prominent arête on the north side of the formation. This is the route described here.
Approaching from Needle Pass, some easy face sequences lead to a good gear stance. Gather your wits and travel onto the (almost overhung!) arête. Negotiate a small bulge (we opted for climbers left) to re-gain the arête and climb it to the summit of the first spire. From here, a third class scrambles take you to the other highpoints.
Gear is tricky, but there are some good placements, though much of the rock feels friable. Given that the volcanic rock does not lend itself to stability, a lead fall could be dangerous. However, you'll find gear where you most want it, as the gear-less run-out sections are easier. Very unique movement on quality terrain--this is definitely a route worth repeating on its own right!
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