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Beta Bros
5.10c,
Sport, 25 ft (8 m),
Avg: 1.9 from 19
votes
FA: Jared Hancock, Jimbo Lynn, Barry Gwinn. 2023
Kentucky
> Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Bruise Brothers Wall
Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve
Details
Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit
Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at
muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
- All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
- The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
- No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
- No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.
Description
Right of Beta Babes is Beta Bros. Bouldery beginning with a flake feature to a big or burly bump move. Juggy jaunt from there to clip the chains. Stays dry in the rain.
Location
Follow the Horseshoe Falls trail past the main Bruisebrothers wall for a minute or two and you will soon see some stone steps on your left. Take this path up and go to the left when you reach a small cave. You will pass 3 short sport routes. A minute later you will see a short overhanging wall. Beta Bros is the first bolted route on the right.
Protection
2 glue-in bolts + 2 bolt chain top anchors