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Salad Days

5.11-, Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 4 from 6 votes
FA: Eric Wehrly & Dain Berdinka 8/20/2022
Washington > Northwest Region > Hwy 20 & N Casc… > N Cascades > Washington Pass > Porcupine Creek Wall
Warning Access Issue: AREA CLOSED DUE TO EASY FIRE DetailsDrop down

Location

See Porcupine Creek Wall page for approach directions.  The route starts just right of a short left-trending corner system below a large slab on the center-right side of the formation.  A small, solitary shrubbery exists at the base of the slab (and immediately next to P1 anchors) and makes a good landmark.

Description

The route was originally climbed ground up on very dirty rock without the use of bolts.   This was followed by extensive cleaning, the addition of fixed stations and the development of several variations (some bolted) that avoid circuitous, loose or excessively dirty terrain.

P1 (See beta photo) Easy slab leads to short bolt-protected arete forming right side of left-leaning corner.  Stay right of small, stepped roofs before a somewhat exciting mantle leads back left onto slab above.  5.8 100’

P2 Easy corners lead to obvious flake.   Climb flake ~25’ to just before a horn-like jug.  Make a short, tenuous traverse across the wall to the left using an obvious sloping foot rail.  Keep traversing under steep orange rock to a tightly bolted jug haul that avoids loose blocks. Pass a slung block then 4th-class terrain leads to base of finger crack.  5.9 200’

P3. Very sustained thin finger crack.  Two cruxes, the first right off the anchor, the second just before roof.   5.11-  115’  Gear to 1.75”

After P3 only need a double rack.  Not sure if the following three pitches are hard for 5.8, easy for 5.9 or if I was just tired.  You decide.  Regardless, the next 350’ offers excellent, sustained moderate crack climbing.

P4 Climb into stembox, before it constricts exit right to right-trending crack (ignoring mid-pitch rap station).  When crack peters out avoid heathery weakness to right by climbing straight up past a bolt into small blank-looking dihedral. As dihedral ends stem left to finger crack layback.  There are several mild runouts on this pitch.  5.8/9 135’

P5.  Climb easily up the corner on the far left then continue up excellent cracks ending with a steep layback to an exposed belay perch.  5.8/9 95'

P6. Up corner 15’.  At base of suspect blocks pull out left past bolt to short slab.   Step up left to finger crack in R-facing corner.   Undercling right around large roof then more cracks lead to anchor at base of final slabs. (Alt. at top of short slab step right to nice layback and intermittent cracks - still dirty) 5.8/9 90'

P7 Easy slabs and overlaps lead to ridge crest. Links with P6.  Be mindful of loose rock on this pitch.  Low-5th 85' 

P8 Move belay across exposed 3rd class to base of final summit block (1"-2" cams for belay).  A difficult mantle leads to easier climbing and a very nice summit. Only need 3 draws for lead.  5.9 50'

 

Rap the route in 10 rappels with a single 70m rope.    P2 and P4 are greater than 35m in length and require the use of mid-stations (chains on P4, slung block on P2). P3 may be a rope stretcher, watch your ends (see beta photo).  Otherwise brave a complex, loose walk off.

Recommended Gear

•1x 70m rope

•12 mostly alpine runners

•1-2 sets of nuts micro-offsets, sm-lg stoppers

•2x 0.4"

•3x 0.5”-0.75”

•2x 1”-1.75”

•1x 2”- 4”

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Salad Days - Red. Arrested Development - Blue.
[Hide Photo] Salad Days - Red. Arrested Development - Blue.
A very foreshortened view of P3 finger crack
[Hide Photo] A very foreshortened view of P3 finger crack
Final Pitch follows sun/shade line
[Hide Photo] Final Pitch follows sun/shade line
Rapping P3 w a 70
[Hide Photo] Rapping P3 w a 70
P2 Layback Flake -  climbers approaching "horn-like jug"
[Hide Photo] P2 Layback Flake - climbers approaching "horn-like jug"
Mantel on Summit Block
[Hide Photo] Mantel on Summit Block
Upper Dihedrals P4-P6
[Hide Photo] Upper Dihedrals P4-P6
First Pitch more or less
[Hide Photo] First Pitch more or less
Pitch 5
[Hide Photo] Pitch 5

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Darin Berdinka
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Climbed twice this year on 7/1/23 and 7/15/23.

ice axes not needed. Fill up water at PCT as basin will be dry soon. Full shade by 11am. Bring puffies.

Crux pitch is sustained. With the liberal use of nuts, three sets of finger-size cams sewed it up. No move harder than 5.10 but merits an 11- rating.

While the climb is extremely cleaned up from its original state, grit has collected on some ledges and there’s still bits of lichen and dirt here and there. Don’t expect it to be as buffed out as your favorite crag. Jul 2, 2023
wakaranai
Mount Vernon, WA
 
[Hide Comment] This route far exceeded our expectations. Even though most of the climbing is 5.9 ish, it is physical and engaging on solid rock. The crux pitch packs a punch and is one best finger tip splitters in WA pass. The bolted anchors are well placed for clean rappels. Don’t skip this summit. Amazing panoramic views from a unique perspective. Some loose blocks on easy ground warrant alpine attention but the majority of technical climbing is on excellent stone. A real gem, especially in the summer heat. Jul 14, 2024