Type: | Trad, Alpine, 650 ft (197 m), 10 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Jim & Jola Sandford, May 2023 |
Page Views: | 2,053 total · 121/month |
Shared By: | Tom Appleby on Jun 25, 2023 · Updates |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
A great addition to the numerous ways of summiting Mt Habrich. Well bolted and equipped with nice shiny chain anchors and lower-offs on excellent stances and incredible views of Sky Pilot. A day of alpine luxury out the back of the gondola. Glorious.
P1: Up the hands / fist cracks and flake. Easily linked with P2. 5.8 16m
P2: Corner crack rising right up into a layback on a bolt. Awesome! 5.10a (5.9?) 25m
P3: Trend up and right on slabby face past bolts. Easily linked with P4. 5.8 15m
P3 var: Alternatively trend left on harder face and crack past several bolts. 5.10a 15m
P4: Cruise up the bolted slab face. 5.6 17m
P5: Face climb up past several bolts. Easily linked with P6. 5.9 19m
P6: More engaging slabby face climbing past bolts. 5.9 19m
P7: Guess what? It's more slabby face climbing! 5.8 20m
P8: Rising traverse right to pull a mini-roof on good holds, up into a cruxy stem box. 5.10a 22m
P9: Charge up the flaring crack with bolts and good gear in the back. Fun! Easily linked with P10. 5.9 (5.8?) 30m
P10: Cruiser. 5.3 17m
Follow your nose to the summit of Mt Habrich.
Descent
There are numerous scramble routes with rappels back down to the climbers trail including the SE Ridge, NW face regular route and Escape Velocity. Rappelling the route can be recommended and is easily done with a single 60m rope. The rappels are fairly clean and the stations well protected, but watch out for other climbers, loose rock and snarled ropes. With a 70m rope, experience and an abundance of caution it's possible to link some of the rappels.
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