Type: Trad, Alpine, 650 ft (197 m), 10 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jim & Jola Sandford, May 2023
Page Views: 2,053 total · 121/month
Shared By: Tom Appleby on Jun 25, 2023 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A great addition to the numerous ways of summiting Mt Habrich. Well bolted and equipped with nice shiny chain anchors and lower-offs on excellent stances and incredible views of Sky Pilot. A day of alpine luxury out the back of the gondola. Glorious.

P1: Up the hands / fist cracks and flake. Easily linked with P2. 5.8 16m

P2: Corner crack rising right up into a layback on a bolt. Awesome! 5.10a (5.9?) 25m

P3: Trend up and right on slabby face past bolts. Easily linked with P4. 5.8 15m

P3 var: Alternatively trend left on harder face and crack past several bolts. 5.10a 15m

P4: Cruise up the bolted slab face. 5.6 17m

P5: Face climb up past several bolts. Easily linked with P6. 5.9 19m

P6: More engaging slabby face climbing past bolts. 5.9 19m

P7: Guess what? It's more slabby face climbing! 5.8 20m

P8: Rising traverse right to pull a mini-roof on good holds, up into a cruxy stem box. 5.10a 22m

P9: Charge up the flaring crack with bolts and good gear in the back. Fun! Easily linked with P10. 5.9 (5.8?) 30m

P10: Cruiser. 5.3 17m

Follow your nose to the summit of Mt Habrich. 

Descent

There are numerous scramble routes with rappels back down to the climbers trail including the SE Ridge, NW face regular route and Escape Velocity. Rappelling the route can be recommended and is easily done with a single 60m rope. The rappels are fairly clean and the stations well protected, but watch out for other climbers, loose rock and snarled ropes. With a 70m rope, experience and an abundance of caution it's possible to link some of the rappels.

Location Suggest change

Approach is via the Mt Habrich climbers trail, route starts to the right of Life on Earth

Protection Suggest change

Lots of bolts. Single set of cams BD #0.3 - 3. 8 x alpine draws, 12-14 if linking pitches.

Photos

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