Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 7 pitches
FA: Erin Connery, March 2022
Page Views: 219 total · 12/month
Shared By: Erin Connery on Jun 24, 2023 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

250’ linkup of 6 short trad pitches. P1 and P3 have alternative lines to choose from. A shorter (i.e. 25m) rope helps move fast with option to walk off east or short tie a 60m to later rap various exits (anchors at P3, P4, P7, and P8). 

P1 5.6 40’

Short but solid hand crack to right of 10-foot pillar leaning against wall. Gear anchor (.75, 1”) at feet at top out. Continue around left corner east and duck under pillar to begin P2.

P2 5.8 35’

Squeeze pitch with double hand crack that tops out on large pillar, then continues into short crack segment with gear anchor at feet. Consider linking next pitch if you have the gear. 

P3 5.9 30’ 

Step up into fist crack that widens, finish on thinner crack right. Gear anchor (.75” and 1”) at feet or belay from chain anchor on back of south pillar. Anchor with chains not visible until on top of pillar, belonging to a southern facing climb called Lutefisk.

P3 5.9+ 30’ (ALTERNATIVE OFFWIDTH LINE) 

This is a fun wide crack to the right. Easiest to belay partner up from chain anchor located behind pillar up and right after top out. Anchor with chains not visible until on top of pillar.

Rappel and build gear anchor in the small crack directly below to protect opening 5.4 moves before leader reaches P4’s west facing crack. Alternatively, avoid rap by down climbing 5.5. Or exit here by rapping southwest with a 60m.

P4 5.9 35’

Take crack in left hand corner to horizontal, crossing over into crack on right, then belay from staple. Optional rap from Staple with 60m.

Short section of 3rd class terrain with option to protect midway down climb.

P5 5.8 40’ 

Climb short crack, then another short crack up to gear anchor. Sling pillar top with rope to rap down into the hole. 

P6 5.9 50’

Starts on awkward wide crack to longer wide crack. Place high to avoid rope drag then hop rocks to build gear anchor at far wall. See pictures to help navigate to start and finish of this pitch. Option stop and TR the Saguaro Spire here. 

P7 5.8 20’

Dinky pitch to keep traveling up. Gear anchor at top out. To exit here, walk ridge north to various rap anchors on the west facing Wing Wall.

Enjoy a 360 view of the Granite Dells! 

You are now close to the anchor for the Zig Zag Wall climbs if you have time.

Descent: Option to rap south facing walls on chain anchors atop Surprise Wall or The Buttress Crack route. There is also a wandery 4th class walk off to the east.

Location Suggest change

Circle the Needles clockwise until you see a standalone pillar leaning against the west facing wall to the right of a fist sized crack, marking P1.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles: .5-3” Singles: 0.3”, 0.4”, 4”. Several alpine draws. Gear anchors.

Photos

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