Bulls on Parade

This climb has an adventurous and alpine feel, despite being so close to town. This route has a ton of 4th/low 5th-class rock interspersed with some fun and engaging climbing. Most belay stances are at big comfortable ledges and allow for good communication between climbers. We cleaned and trundled a number of loose rocks on the route however, be aware that there still is some remaining rock along the ledges, so pay attention to your steps and how your rope runs. Pitches are generally short to manage rockfall hazard and rope drag. All anchors are gear anchors. 

Pitch 1: 5.7, 35m

Ascend the broken blocks to the base of a corner marked by a small tree. Thrash through the tree to continue up the corner to a stance below a roof with a finger crack. Move left out onto an arete and continue up the rock to a good belay stance along a ledge. 

Pitch 2: 5.6, 35m

Climb up towards a left-facing corner containing a nice finger crack. Continue up the corner until you are able to move out left onto the face. Aim for the big ledge with an obvious tree. There is a nice vertical crack approximately 5 meters from the tree to set a belay. The tree may also work.

Pitch 3: 5.7, 15m

Traverse right along the ledge for about 5 meters, then head up the slab making some nice face moves along the way. Aim for the next obvious ledge. This pitch could be combined with pitch 2 if you pay careful attention to how your rope is running. 

Pitch 4: 5.10 20m

Move straight up from the belay towards an overhanging finger to hand crack. Make some strenuous moves up the crack using a combination of stemming, jamming, and decent jug hauling (crux). The feet are a bit tricky, but it's all there. Finish on a great hand/fist crack (5 meters), moving right at the top to set the belay. We cleaned a bunch of loose rock on this ledge, so stay vigilant for anything you could knock down on your belayer.

There are possible variations to this pitch that may knock the grade down a bit. One potential variation is the slot to the left of the crux crack system that may go in the 5.8 range. 

Pitch 5: 5.6, 30m

Move up from the belay and trend left. There is a large ledge system approximately 20m below the obvious roof/off-width that allows you to traverse left. After traversing left for approximately 10m, head up towards a crack just along the left side of the headwall arete. Set a belay at the base of the crack.

Pitch 6: 5.8, 20m

Head straight up the pleasant crack. At the top of the crack step left, climbing a bunch of blocky terrain (3rd/4th class) to the base of a short wall. Either traverse left for more 3rd/4th classing or climb straight up at 5.7ish, or step right on low 5th class blocks. If climbing the short wall, execute a hand traverse right along good rails to make the final top out move for this pitch. This bypasses a potentially dangerous triangle-shaped block that I recommend avoiding. 

Pitch 7: Choose your own adventure to the top 60-80m

There are many possibilities to the top. Choose your own adventure. We opted to move up/right towards another major ledge system. From the ledge, we climbed a pleasant vertical finger crack. The crack looks narrow and steep; however, there are perfect jugs that keep the climbing fun 5.8. 

Descent: 

Take the standard Jagged Edge descent. Head east from the summit and descend a short scree slope, which leads you to the top of a gully. DO NOT HEAD DOWN THE FIRST GULLY. Continue east until you reach the top of a second gully (41.27218, -111.93470). Work your way down the 3rd/4th class gully. Near the base of the gully, make a short rappel (~20m) using a large boulder with cord along the base. Take care when accessing the rappel, as the rock is slick.  

Follow the Jump Off Canyon Creek drainage back to the main trail. Take the main trail back to the trailhead.

Approach via the Jump Off Canyon trail towards the mouth of the canyon. The route is located at the top of the talus field in the large gully to the opposite side of the “Jagged Edge.” Begin on the eastern wall (climber's right) of the gully about 20 feet left of the small conifer tree (41.27305, -111.93929) that marks the start of “Limey Ridge.”