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Jeffcoat's Buttress

Name: Jeffcoat's Buttress
Rating: 3.0

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Upper Tier

L › R R › L A › Z

	Black and Tans (S 4a) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Easy Gully Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Jeffcoat's Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Jelly Roll T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Right Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Saul's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sloth (HVS 5a), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Wombat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

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Type:	Trad, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Stanley Jeffcoat, 1913
Page Views:	118 total · 7/month
Shared By:	Andy Weinmann on Jun 21, 2023
Admins:	Chris Owen, Euan Cameron Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

P1: Boulder up to the flakes and cracks (small cams) up towards the overhang. Move left and up, skirting the overhang on its left side. Once above it, traverse back right and out to the nose, then pull up to a nice stance with two cracks above and belay.

P2: Climb the cracks to the top.

HS 5a puts it at about 5.8. The opening moves are stiff. After that it backs off to probably 5.7 at most with P2 probably being more 5.4/5.5.

Location

Locate the big overhang with the slab beneath (The crack of The Sloth splits this roof). On the left side is chimney/crack with a holly bush (start of Black & Tans and Hollybush Crack). Further left is another chimney (Jeffcoat's Chimney)...directly right of this is the start of of Jeffcoat's Buttress, beneath some left-facing flakes.