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Don't Look a Gift Block...
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Routes in Aegir
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20th Century Flake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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21st Century Finger Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Admiral Indubitable T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Africa Flake T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Batten Down the Hatch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blockbuster Ballet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Castles Made Of Sand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Coriolis T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Crankbugs S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Direct Madness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Don't Look a Gift Block... T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Doubt S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Ebb and Go S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Elacca Drug T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gom Gabbar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hard to Port S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Heartbreak Junkie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Jitterbugs S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Loki Unbound S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Neglect S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Patience S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Portholes S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Reef Break T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Reefer Madness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Reeferless Feat T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Rogue Planet T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Scallywags S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sea Demons T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sea Snake S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Smooth Sailing S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Soul Deprived S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Starfish S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Thread Lightly T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tideways T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Trident S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | John Steiger, Ray Ringle 1983 |
| Page Views: | 175 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | adrian montaño on Jun 19, 2023 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
The crack system right of the huge downward-pointing flake on the left side of the wall.
Same year & FA as Castles.
Starts down & right of a small tree ~15 feet up. Tricky pro through step-like ledges with increasingly interesting movement brings you to an aesthetic but hollow flake halfway to the diagonal cracks up high. A fall onto this gear has the potential to explode the flake (I'd use stoppers instead of cams). Super fun but committing moves lead to another smaller & thinner flake below the mantle to a stance underneath the undercling traverse just below the cracks.
Reach high to place a bomber gold offset, then step up into the airy traverse dancing along small feet, making long reaches in between awesome fingerlocks. A long move to the next crack that makes up the "Gift Block" leads to sinker hand jams & casual climbing left to the ledge with a tree to your right. (~ 80 feet)
Do not clip the mussy hook lower off chain for Africa Flake, continue right on the ledge until reaching a two bolt anchor to rap & clean.
Pitch one is worth doing. Pitch two climbs the short 5.9 dihedral above this tree to a walk off.
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