Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches
FA: BR and JW
Page Views: 209 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ben Ramsey on Jun 14, 2023 · Updates
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Sundog climbs a tight hands crack up a dihedral and out a bulging, flaring roof. 

The first pitch ascends the crack in the corner at 5.10. Start in the second dihedral from the left wall. Fun jamming in a clean crack take you to the shade of the alcove above (chains). P2: Climb the corner to reach the underside of the roof, then put your dukes up and traverse out on improbable footholds to gain the lip. A variety of techniques will get you up the bulging corner and into a solid stance. Place a cam and steel yourself for a little slab adventure. It's not difficult but I put the bolt uncomfortably high up (This was accidental. Anyone can add a bolt to make it safer). Clip the bolt and continue to a sandy ledge with chains. The route continues another pitch but it is not yet worth it. We are working on extending the route higher, but as of now P3 goes nowhere and isn't worth it. 70 meter rope gets you all the way to the base from the top of P2. I do not recommend trying to rap with a 60 to the anchor below the bulge. 

Extra beta: 

When you lead through the roof, leave a .3 in the small crack to the left of the roof to keep the rope from getting stuck in the thin seam underneath. I didn't do this the first time I climbed it and the rope drag was so bad I thought I was going to die falling from the then-unbolted slab above. 

Location Suggest change

Climb into the back of a large alcove. Look for the protruding Sundog roof. See images.

Protection Suggest change

I don't remember the exact rack but a single rack from .3 to 4 with doubles of .75 and 1 and one quickdraw would be the minimum I would take. 70 meter rope or two ropes mandatory.

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