Blue Diamond Direct

Connor and I climbed this the very beginning of March when it was the only thing on Mt. Wilson that wasn’t covered in snow. Conditions were alpine. I would assume this variation has already been climbed due to it being a logical line. It’s hard to discern upper sections of this from the original but the main differences would be that if starts at the lowest point of the ridge adding 3 technical pitches 10-10+ instead of going around the ridge and scrambling for several hundred feet on lower class climbing. This line stays on the ridge proper the entire time and we encountered a couple other pitches up to 10+/11- in the upper half by not deviating to lower sections. From the old description of the original blue Diamond ridge and the one trip report I found it seems the original will deviate to the climbers left of the ridge in several places.

Start above a bush with a hand crack that 30’ above turns into a wide crack 6/7” just above last major scramble past the fixed rope that was on the wall from older development on the lower walls. 

Continue up this and negotiate rotten over hand crack in recession. Land on huge ledge.go to right up huge ledge and continue up a 5.8 corner

Continue up hand crack and 

Simul climb easy terrain up through a very wide corridor reaching another huge ledge with a large set of prows looming above. Climb around right hand side of first shield  on steep juggy rock then  up through corner reaching the base of the second shield. We climbed the right side of shield on run out face climbing. The left side is has a crack and probably provides better gear. Above this face simul climb ridge putting you on top of a Major ganderm. Down climb this and continue moving along the ridge proper till you meet another face. Move right around this face to find another large right facing that arches right through some loose rock eventually landing on another large ledge. Continue simul climbing easier terrain up steps eventually landing on a ledge with a crack splitting the face above. Pull the low overhang and climb the left arching crack. 

5th class to another face with two cracks on it we climbed the one on the left which is roughly a 11- 1-2” crack. Above this fifth class up towards a short easy but chossy face worth a rope. Above this you hit another large shield of rock that you pass via a face with a corner to the right of it to the summit ridge.

Tromp up what is described on the main pages pictures as option 1 until you reach the description for the start.