Fool In The Rain
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 4 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
FA: | Andy Jackson & Joe McKeen |
Page Views: | 203 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Andy Jackson on Jun 6, 2023 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
Fool In the Rain - 5.11b / 10c
Start at the base of a low-angle groove by an old tree stump.
P1 10b/c - Climb up to a left-facing layback crack (5.9). Pull over this to a beautiful hand crack. At its top, move right into a thin finger crack. Techy moves (crux) past another tree stump leads to a nice ledge. Move up and right to the anchor.
P1 variation 10b/c - After the layback, step right on a small ledge/flake to a beautiful finger crack. Jam/layback the crack to an anchor.
P2 11b/c - Climb the beautiful crack directly above the anchor to Rest Stop ledge. Physical and technical, to say the least. Possibly the best pitch on the route. This would be a proud onsite. Unfortunately, this pitch usually seeps until mid-summer.
P2 variation #1 5.9 - Alternatively, climb the excellent layback crack to the left. Move up and right around the corner to a cool 5.7 chimney ending at Rest Stop ledge.
P2 variation #2 10b - Make a couple of thin face/slab moves out left past two bolts. At the large tree, move right into the corner, then into the 5.7 chimney.
P3 10b/c - Move the belay ~10m to the right, below the massive corner. Face climb up and right of the belay (2b’s). Make a reachy move past a small roof. Another steep section ends at an anchor on a nice ledge to the right.
P4 10b/c - The money pitch! Climb the easy, wide cracks above the belay. Then move right into the beautiful corner. Jam/chimney up this to the belay on a sloping ledge. Quality! Physical for the grade.
Rap from here with a 60m————————————————————————
P5 A & B
***CLOSED PROJECTS***The roof crack directly above the belay and the wide crack on the left with the bolts are still both closed for cleaning. Please respect the people who put in long hours to open this crag and do not climb this until it’s ready. Thank you.
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