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The Other One

5.11d, Sport, 33 ft (10 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
Washington > Okanogan > Burge N (Tonasket) > Burge Hollow -… > Deadhead Wall

Description

The Other One 5.11d/12a?*** (33') F(4b)

Sustained and varied, this challenging little route climbs the short steep far right end of the cliff (right around the corner from The Eleven). A bouldery start (sit down start possible for bonus points) up sloping shallow pockets leads to a sustained steep middle section with positive in-cut holds/rails, and then a less steep but more delicate and tricky upper section, finally more bonus points for doing the mantle exit instead of just clipping the top anchors. All three of the lower clips are difficult (although the first bolt can be "stick-clipped" by hand from the top of the boulder, thus avoiding a potential fall onto said boulder...) and there are no rests until just below the top with equally difficult cruxes passing each of the first three bolts (however, it may feel like the main crux is avoiding stepping onto/off the large boulder near the base...). Overall, a short but challenging route that feels much longer than it is and makes for an extremely difficult on-sight. 

Location

Climbs the short steep far right end of the cliff beginning about 6' left and downhill from the large boulder.

Protection

Fixed - 4 brown painted bolts with 2 anchors with quick-links over the top (long draws or short cordelette needed for lowering/top-roping).