Type: Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Darren Knezek, Jeff Rose
Page Views: 212 total · 12/month
Shared By: Darren Knezek on May 29, 2023
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This climb is to the left of Mucus. When I first looked at it, I thought, "This will be an easy 5.10." 

Most climbers that get on this one will probably be thinking the same thing. 

It starts off on a big ledge with some easy, big pocket pulling. The first two bolts will wiz by and you might still be thinking, "What a fun, pleasurable route!"

After a few nice pocket jugs, you reach out right to a good two finger pocket and the holds turn invisible. A long move off the two finger to a really cool, very slopey, jug and a very tough clip of the third bolt.

Reach out left to some terrible sidepulls. Another series of long, bumping from hold to hold moves with the right hand this time and another pumpy clip of the fourth bolt.

More pumpy moves finish the climb. This route is like a long bouldery V3 or 4.

A couple of things will make this climb miserable. 

1.) Climbing way left, off route, at the third bolt. You'll be rewarded with fistfuls of dirt and a cool swinging fall.

2.) Putting 5.10 effort into a 5.11 because it looks easy.

All in all, this climb even though short, has some pretty unique holds, especially that brick/sloper. 

Dial in the moves of this climb, and it could become the perfect candidate for bringing up your climbing buddies.

Throw your rope down, stick clip a couple of bolts, and look at your friend and say, "You're gonna love it, it's the perfect easy 5.10 warmup."

Location Suggest change

This route is to the right of Membrane Roof and barely to the left of Mucus.

Protection Suggest change

4 bolts and chains.

Photos

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