Chimney Route

The route follows the very obvious left leaning ramp/chimney feature on the NW Face. Despite the name, there is no actual chimney climbing involved. All belays are bolted, the crux is bolted and the rest of the climb protects well, and all pitches less than 30m. All this makes it to be an excellent first alpine climb. However, as tradition for the Rockies, there is significant loose rock and you are almost guaranteed to knock some things off if you rappel. Do not climb under another party.

I recommend purchasing the Northern Exposure guidebook as it's descriptions are spot on, this is what I have from memory:

P1: From a belay anchor in a corner to the left of the main ramp, climb up to a steep, exposed face. This is the crux of the route and the exposure is amazing with the steep face on your left. However, the crux moves are protected well by a shiny bolt, so enjoy it! After pulling the crux, continue up the ramp to the next anchor. (5.6)

P2: Shorter pitch, slight left traverse, then following left of the chimney up. (5.4)

P3: Climb up and right following the chimney, you'll reach a sloping ledge with a steep wide crack which can be climbed at 10- protecting with a #2 and/or #3. It's short, burly, not very exposed and well protected so recommended if you're feeling it! Otherwise, head right up the corner instead and then back left to the next anchor.

P4: We got lost on this pitch but it all ended up ok. We followed a low angle, left facing corner that protected well but to reach the anchor had to do a hard traverse right, which ended with LOTS of rope drag. I believe the proper pitch is trending right up the steeper, block terrain directly to the anchors.

P5:This pitch is a lot more vague in my memory. You essentially head straight up, I believe cross a bit of a gully to a face and follow a crack trending right toward the end of the main chimney feature. You reach an anchor just at the edge of the feature.

Descent: Rap on the Metolius Rap Hangers (big beefy hangers that can be rapped on, no rings/chain required) or scramble up to the peak and follow the scramble down.

Approach:

Can take a couple hours and is ~800m of elevation gain. But includes lots of fun scrambling. 

Park in the gravel pullout here (53.22694214343531, -117.82939581637396) and follow the short gravel road heading toward the peak. You'll see a cliffband on your left, pass this and follow the trail heading up the NW ridge of the peak. Eventually the trail splits left following the scramble route, if you're heading deep into the woods you've gone too far. You essentially want to follow the split of the treeline on the ridge up to the steep terrain above. You'll eventually reach some scrambling terrain which is a choose your own adventure. Just keep heading toward the obvious left leaning chimney/ramp feature. Eventually you'll find a 2 bolt belay anchor which is the start of the climb.