PRINT: Rock Climb Nuclear Dance (Link-up), Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge

Nuclear Dance (Link-up)

5.12, Trad,

Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Grahm Hornsby, May 2023
Oklahoma > Wichita Mountai… > Narrows > Lichen Wall

Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.

Description

An easier way to enjoy the finger crack on Nubian Dance.

Start on Nuclear Combat, after a couple moves in the finger crack solve the traversing boulder problem right around the arête to join the finger crack on Nubian Dance. Finishes at the shared two bolt anchor.

Location

In between Nuclear Combat and Nubian Dance, in the second pitch tier of Lichen Wall. Start from the ground in a long pitch or from the p1 belay.

Protection

Finger cams, 2 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Try not to get dizzy looking at this

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jon Frank

It looks 4.5 stars on your video. Great job :) May 27, 2023

Grahm Hornsby
Norman, OK

5.12

I appreciate that! It absolutely deserves full stars when it comes to movement, position, rock quality, etc. I removed one star because it’s a linkup, not sure if that’s fair to the route though. May 28, 2023