Cheapskate (East Face Of Universal Wall)

A good route on mostly solid route with a handful of runouts. Most of the runouts are on quite moderate terrain but if you’re a 5.10 leader I would probably avoid this climb. Anyways here’s the route:

P1: Start on the far right of the ledge to the right of Landscapes of the heart, climb up a low angle scrambly corner to its top where a high first bolt comes into view at 50’, continue up the low angle terrain to another bolt, and then a ledge with an anchor. 100’ (2-3b’s) 5.8 R

P2: Step left off the belay to a weakness in the bulge, carefully pull over the bulge to clip the first bolt, continue up the airy face above following a few more bolts to an anchor. 100’ (5b’s) 5.9+ R

P3: Step up to a small bulge clipping a bolt, from here runout about 40 feet to a bolt located on the arete above, and continue following a few more bolts past a final short headwall to an anchor. 110’ (5b’s) 5.10- R/X

P4: continue up the low angle features to a large ledge with a bolt, extend this, and continue a ways up to the next bolt which, from here head up and trend slightly right for 40 feet or so to another bolt (don’t blow this as a fall would likely result in hitting the large ledge below) continue up clipping one more bolt to an anchor in the choss. 125’ (4b’s) 5.9+/5.10- X

From here most parties are encouraged to rappel the route with an 80m rope. If you are feeling a little bold/adventurous get stoked for the crux (not advised)

P5: 5.11a R/X 130’ Head up the obvious well bolted line above passing 5 bolts and a slabby crux. From here trend up and right through a couple bushes to a ledge, step right and traverse a chossy terrace clipping a small tree on the way, continue up the chossy corner, to the massive terrace above, pick your poison and decide the safest place to build your anchor. I personally used a clump of 3 bushes which worked well, but perhaps bring some small cams and build an anchor in a limestone horizontal. Belay you’re partner up and scramble onto the big terrace. Walk left and Rappel “Landscapes Of The Heart” with an 80m rope 

Located 20 feet or so right of Landscapes of the Heart. On the rightmost end of the ledge