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Cracked

5.8+, Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 14 votes
FA: Ben Wyse late 2020
Virginia > Shenandoah & NW… > Hidden Rocks > (4) Hidden Roofs

Description

Starts on top of a pile of huge boulders just to the right of the Flower Sermon roof.  A few moves off the boulders will establish you at a stance below a large roof.  Skirt the big roof on the right and climb straight up to a huge ledge. Step left across the "diving board" (there is a bolt above your head installed on the underside of the roof) to a stance below a short corner leading to the upper off-width.  The "diving board" is stable!  I jumped up and down on the end of it and it doesn't move, but it sure looks scary.  Climb steep moves up to and through the off-width.  Enjoy the exposure between your legs on the final stemming moves. Please leave the two hexes in the upper crack.  They are meant to be fixed pro.  

Beta Video : youtu.be/H0Hy5MLJS9Q

Location

First route to the right of Flower Sermon.  

Protection

6 bolts protect the bottom of the route.  I installed two fixed Hexes in the upper crack so the route can be climbed with 8 quick draws.  A 200 pound climber peeled out of the upper crack taking a good whipper onto the bottom hex, so it is nicely seated in the crack!  If you want to supplement the fixed gear with your own, bring #1-4 Camalots and rack them on the right side of your harness.  Fixe ring anchors at the top equipped with steel 'biners.  These can easily be accessed to set up a TR.  Note, the sun NEVER hits the cord/webbing on the hexes so it should be good for the next 10 years, but as always you should inspect the soft goods and use your own judgement.  The lower hex equipped with both standard cord and supplemental webbing for redundancy.      

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cruxing on "Cracked". Photo By Ben Wyse
[Hide Photo] Cruxing on "Cracked". Photo By Ben Wyse
Layback rest from above. Photo by Ben Wyse.
[Hide Photo] Layback rest from above. Photo by Ben Wyse.
Doug Michon approaching the off-width
[Hide Photo] Doug Michon approaching the off-width
Martha climbing Cracked
[Hide Photo] Martha climbing Cracked
Layback Rest
[Hide Photo] Layback Rest
Christine makes the first successful lead after the route was established.  Photo by Austin Bell
[Hide Photo] Christine makes the first successful lead after the route was established. Photo by Austin Bell
Doug standing on the "diving board" half way up contemplating the steep moves ahead.
[Hide Photo] Doug standing on the "diving board" half way up contemplating the steep moves ahead.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ben Wyse
Harrisonburg, VA.
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Named for the cool tree that used to live on the ledge. A heavy and wet snow load cracked the main trunk and broke the tree. (The same weather event broke the tree off of the ledge on Jungle Gym) Craig Spaulding and I have climbed several variations on the bottom face. A direct start has also been climbed through the lower roof to the right of the regular start. May 18, 2023
Wade Banks
Harrisonburg, VA
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] The most exciting route at hidden roofs IMO Nov 2, 2024