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Elevenses
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.6 from 8
votes
Routes in Middle Earth
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Bobbin' for Hobbits S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Breeze, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bump, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Centennial S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Delirious S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Delirium Variation S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Earth Angel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Elevenses S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Elfin Warrior S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Fireball S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gift that keeps on giving., The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Gift, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Grand Opening S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hobbit In A Blender S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hobbitual Offender S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Infectious S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Irresistible S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Just a Fantasy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Middle Earth S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Planet Eater, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Premonition S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pull Me Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Red Hot S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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S'Blended S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Second Breakfast S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Silmarillion S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tea and Muffins S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Variation La Résistance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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War Of The Worlds S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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You Betchy It's Sketchy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | Don Wilson, Karen Wilson, April 2023 |
| Page Views: | 322 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Don Wilson on Apr 23, 2023 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Elevenses: A hobbit's meal after Second Breakfast, but before Lunch. Unlike most of the routes of similar grade at Middle Earth, this one is steep and sports some ludicrously large jugs. It ain't a slab route.
The route climbs the vertical to slightly overhanging golden wall that is adjacent and right (west) of most of Middle Earth. This wall is easy to see from Earth Angel or other routes on the right side of Middle Earth.
Starts out with lower angle climbing past 4 bolts up to a slightly overhanging section. The crux goes up, then right thru a short thinner section, to a series of gigantic holds. Continue on good holds and steep rock up to the base of a corner system. Climb the corner system and a second mini crux to exit the corner. A short face after exiting the corner leads to the anchors.
A bit of lichen at the top and bottom. We cleaned this quite a bit, but a couple easier sections still have some lichen. It's NBD and will get better with time.
If you are using a 60m rope, you will have only about 10 feet of rope left after lowering the leader. Be careful if you lower the climber to the lower ledge, below the start point. Knot your rope ends.
Location
Hike to the far right side of Middle Earth, near Earth Angel. Here you can see the adjacent wall that is right of the big chimney system. An obvious path leads over to this wall. Elevenses is on the right side of the wall, and climbs the steep golden rock up to a left facing corner system that is halfway up the wall. Just left of Elevenses, and roughly paralleling the route is Second Breakfast. Both routes have brown colored bolts.
You can hike to the base of the route from Earth Angel in about 1 minute.
Hobbitual Offender is further around the corner to the right of Elevenses.
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