Jackie Treehorn's Jungle Gym of Joyous Delights

Jackie Treehorn treats objects like women, man, and so does the Dude - it ain't everyday Beacon gets a new route from base to summit, so savor it if you dare - it's an adventure climb, a great mini-big wall trainer too, so I doubt the numerous nancy-bois about the park will show much interest but hey, if you provide legit evidence of an ascent I'll spring for a six pack for you, and if you take me with I'll make it two.

It's a jungle gym for sure and the doug firs just keep getting bigger n' kookier the higher you climb, and the clambering ain't like what yer used to neither - steep aid and curious traverses means even the second needs to have their shit wired straight on occasion - an exotic mix of gear, bolts and hooking, aid and free and everything in between on generally solid rock with plenty of scruff, dust, moss and choss in sight if you look around - a vertical wilderness really, and in a part of Beacon that sees few travelers, with a god's eye view of the hiking trail and the ranger-danger station

Jackie Treehorn invites you to sample one and all (you can rap out at any point) - hand-drawn topos for each pitch in the photo section below:

Pitch 1 - The Nice Quiet Beachfront Community (AKA Stay the Fuck Out of Malibu, Lebowski), starts with a hook under a roof to a bolt to the right of Dorian's Dilemma, then makes a rising traverse through DD (clipping one of its bolts) to a wicked steep overhang to a crazy cool hanging belay cave where you could sling a hammock if so motivated and spend the night, slumbering to the sweet serenade of Highway 14

Pitch 2 - The Known Pornographer - exit the cave on the left, bust up awkwardly through a breach in the overhang, then up a gully on finnicky gear and a bolt to a slung tree, then bolts on a rising traverse to the left - drop down behind a big doug fir and stumble up the mercifully short shitty gully to a bolt on the Burning Calves slab - fix the rope to the BC anchor for the second, then walk over left and enjoy the shade under Jim's Tree where you make your next belay

Pitch 3 - The Mean Caucasian - Jackie's been known to slip a roofie into your favorite milk beverage, and the roof on this pitch certainly sorts out the baser elements - try not to notice the first 5 feet off the ledge requires delicately negotiating a patch of poison oak so you can enjoy the good clean fun of the traverse on bolts, hooks and gear - its a wild moment committing to the bolt above the roof and swinging vigorously out into space, working like mad to swing back in and dis-attach your daisy so you can proceed above the lip - a thin cam in a crisp microcrack and then its bolt, hook, bolt, hook, all while using a sharp arete for balance while top-stepping - ends at a hanging belay which is made more comfortable if you turn one of your ladders into a seat and loosen up your daisies and let your hips finally breathe

Pitch 4 - Gutterballs - a Jackie Treehorn classic, even if you're not a Bunny Lebowski kinda guy and Karl Hungus leaves you hankering to return to the dairy farm - nuts to a rock-solid toucan pin to cams to hooks to bolts to an exciting hook move past the overhang onto a ledge like a city sidewalk - walk up to the base of short roof, 5.0 to gear to a bolt under the roof - exit the roof via a hook, snag a bolt then follow a couple more to free-climbing up to a giant slung doug fir - fix the rope than lie down above the tree in the most luxurious bed of moss and forest debris you've ever seen while awaiting your second

Pitch 5 - Logjammin' - take it to the trail and tag the summit while you're there - starts as 4th to easy 5th up a tier, walk off way right to an overhang with a bolt, then aid and free up an emerging arete on bolts and gear, ending in a lovely, dusty handcrack where you pick up the 4th class forest to the touron's trail on the final straightaway to the summit (or call it good here at the giant twin doug firs and start your 6 raps to the ground (7 with a 60 meter rope), the first 3 take you down the route back to Jim's Tree, then 3 more raps down the Spike Route/Genesis - careful on that first rap if using a 70 and skipping the intermediate rap station, a 70 makes it with 12 inches to spare and it'd be a shame to die at this point in the adventure)

A brutal 5 minute approach from the parking lot - where the hiking trail finally meets the rock and heads right on pavement towards the gate, go left under all the crazy overhangs (and vigorous poison oak patches) - in a small alcove on an arete spot the drilled hook placement under a roof and a bolt above - this is right of Dorian's Dilemma and the first pitch traverses through that and ends up in a hanging cave above Siege Tactics - belayer is advised to lash themselves to the small doug fir down the hill as a leader fall through space from up high would reveal the unkinder side of Sir Isaac Newton

Bear in mind the Dude is 6'7" and this is mostly an aid climb - I put it all up on lead but even still you short-fawks might fancy a cheater stick and beefing up on the gear below

A single hook for drilled holes will suffice for the leader, but the second needs one too for following the traverse on the Mean Caucasian - you could have the leader send it down on the back end of the rope probably but why not bring 2?  You can use various other kinds of hooks along the route but I'm fine with just using the drilled holes (indicated on topos as circles)

Offset nuts, 1-2 sets (especially in the smaller sizes)

Brassies 

0 metollius through to #4 camalot (doubles from blue metollius through to #2 camalot not a terrible idea, I managed to do it all with just a single set though)

Many draws and extendable slings