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Unnamed a.k.a. The Butt Crack
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Routes in Wall Mart
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Kneeject T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Soft Serve T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Levitation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed a.k.a. The Butt Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Made in China T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Best Western T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shoplifter T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Express Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Aiding and Abetting S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Attention Shoppers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Casual Six T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mr. T T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 170 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Steven Sutin on Apr 13, 2023 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The route described as a butt crack flare in kelley's "creek freak". Climb fingers to a ledge and then continue on with tips (0.3) and stemming in a shallow left facing corner. Commit to the corner and climb fingers up into the butt. Here, the rock deteriorates and the climbing gets varied and shitty. Awkward and flared jamming with occasional rests brings you to the top
The guidebook describes this pitch as 5.12- and 4/5 stars. As is, I think this route is overrated and over graded. 5.11 and 2 stars seems more accurate to me
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