All Locations > Maryland > Prettyboy Reser… > Bonus Wall

More Unfinished Business

Name: More Unfinished Business
Rating: 3.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in The Bonus Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Unfinished Business T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	More Unfinished Business T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Cicadas in Your Pants T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Lulu's Leisure T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Trust But Verify T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Stinger T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Dihedral Wall Left TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dihedral Wall Right TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Dihedral T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13

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Type:	Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 4 pitches
FA:	March 26, 2023. Alex Hill and Jim Borton.
Page Views:	148 total · 6/month
Shared By:	Jim Borton on Mar 26, 2023
Admins:	Frances Fierst, C S Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Details

Update (11/8/2023): It was recently brought to our attention that the Baltimore City Department of Public Works published Watershed Regulations in 2012 that prohibit, among other things, rock climbing ( publicworks.baltimorecity.g…). This contradicts what we've been told by the Baltimore Environmental Police (below). Hopefully, this can be resolved as was the case for mountain biking. In the meantime, please be discrete.

The Baltimore Environmental Police have jurisdiction over Prettyboy Reservoir. They welcome climbers as long as we don't damage anything. The Wildlife and Heritage Service of the Department of Natural Resources (DNR) manages hunting in the Prettyboy Reservoir Watershed and issues permits (bow hunting only). Permits are not required other activities such as fishing, hiking, and horseback riding.

Climbers have reported one occasion (May 8, 2023) when a DNR representative asked them to leave, saying that they needed a permit. This was shared with the Baltimore Environmental Police, and they said this was likely a misunderstanding on the part of the DNR representative and that no permit was needed. Rock climbing is OK.

Do not place bolts anywhere in the Prettyboy Watershed. This constitutes “damage” to the rock and is prohibited by the DNR, as outlined in its management plan for the Prettyboy Reservoir Cooperative Wildlife Managemwnt Area and enforced by the Baltimore Environmental Police.

Description

A rising girdle traverse. Inspired by the Calanques on the French Mediterranean coast. Use your imagination. A little contrived, maybe. But, hey, a multi-pitch route in Baltimore County.

P1: Follow the vertical crack through the overhang directly overhead. This is the crux of the climb. Protect with small cams. Avoid dropping gear in the reservoir. Belay on the ledge above (5.9, 20').

P2: Traverse up and right across the main face. Stay below the overhangs until you can move onto the upper face as you approach the arete on the right. Protect with cams in horizontals along the way. Aim for the horizontals near the top of the arete where you can build an anchor (5.4, 50').

P3: Move around the "nose", staying below the top of the crag. Protect with cams in the obvious horizontal. Step down as you traverse right. Step across the dihedral and down slightly. Aim for the pedestal below the vertical exit crack (5.4, 30').

P4: Climb the vertical crack directly overhead. Top out and belay off of a tree (5.5, 20').