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> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Smoke Bluffs
> Neat & Cool
Where Ancients Fear to Tread
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
Routes in Neat and Cool
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A Necessary Evil T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ali Booto T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Asian Princess Hates Left Turns T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Barefoot Flamingo in China T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V0- 4- |
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Barefoot in China Town T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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batcave T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X |
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Bruce Lee Vs. The Kiss Army T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Cat Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chalk up Another One T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Clean Starts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Clean Starts Left Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Clean Starts Leftmost Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Coffee Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corner Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Cornflakes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Edge, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fear of Flying T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Flying Circus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Geritol T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gollum's Impromptu Sacrifice T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4 |
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Gross Incompetence T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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House Music T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jigsaw Flow, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Kangaroo Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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King of Rock T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Layback Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Little Baby, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mouse Trap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Muddy Waters V10 7C+ |
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Neat and Clean T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Neat and Cool T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Neat and Cool Offwidth T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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On My Way To The Liquor Store T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pink Flamingo T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Psychopath V3 6A |
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Raging Duck S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Repeat When Necessary T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sally Five Fingers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stumps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tales From the Gripped V4 6B |
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There You Go Andy T,S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tree Beard T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Twisted S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wasted Days and Nights S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Where Ancients Fear to Tread T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Who Needs Apps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | R. Suddaby, R. Barley, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 242 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Luka Bogdanovic on Mar 19, 2023 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Start on the left end of the blast grooves and fire up discontinuous crack systems and heady climbing at times to the horizontal break. Traverse hard right along the horizontal break (no pro except for maybe a small tricam) to the arete. Climb the easy slab on the other side of the arete to the chains.
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