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The Life Aquatic

Name: The Life Aquatic
Rating: 3.0

5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British PG13

Routes in Ginger Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Snake Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Fist or Flips T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Somewhere Over the Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Cumin Trafficking T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Life Aquatic, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Power Failure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jack's Lament T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	All You Can Eat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Grab 'Em T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Unimpeachable Groping S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Idiocracy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unintelligible Groaning T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Ginger Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ginger Crack Variation Finish (Der Guberbaum) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Like Tears in Rain T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Blade Runner (aka The Ginger Arête) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Ginger Buttress (full), The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Spice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Sugar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Cayenne Corners T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Salty Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Waterstreak Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dry Rub T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Thyme Alone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2

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Type:	Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches
FA:	FA: Unknown FFA: Josh Janes w/ help from friends
Page Views:	355 total · 13/month
Shared By:	Josh Janes on Mar 13, 2023
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

The Life Aquatic climbs the obvious water streaks emanating from the center of the Power Failure bowl. Though it doesn’t have a spice-themed name, the climbing is quite flavorful. The second pitch in particular is a standout with perfect rock and a beautiful steep finger crack, but the entire route is engaging with some challenging slab sections, delicate features (climb gently!), and occasionally tricky gear. Probably not a route for the uninitiated.

A note on conditions: Those water streaks are there for a reason, and parts of the cracks on the second and third pitches, and the entirety of the fourth pitch, run with water for a long time after periods of heavy precipitation and snow. Unless you want the true aquatic experience, a rule of thumb might be to give it a full week of sunny weather after significant rain, and if it's been snowing, wait two full weeks after the last of the snow has disappeared from the bowl above the water streaks. A good route to save for autumn!

P1 (5.7, 70'): As per Cumin Trafficking, climb the steep lower wall past two bolts to the large ledge system at the base of the main wall. Clip a bolted anchor and traverse left 40' to a belay bolt below a vertical crack.

P2 (5.11, 90'): Climb up the crack of Cumin Trafficking for 15' and place a high piece before diverging rightwards, tiptoeing and balancing across a blank slab towards a beautiful wall of incut edges. Follow this upwards to access the bottom of a steep finger crack which is followed to a belay at a small stance.

P3 (5.10+, 90'): Clip a bolt above the belay and move past a delicate and beautiful flake which is followed by a long stretch of tricky climbing and small gear in soft rock. The upper half of the pitch consists of five bolts worth of cerebral, steep slab climbing along the left edge of the water streak. Belay at a hanging stance, or with extra draws and runners, skip the hanging belay and link into the next pitch.

P4 (5.10, 90'): The Life Aquatic. Move right into the water streak and climb. After the second bolt, you can briefly flirt with the right edge of the water streak where a small horizontal accepts a crucial Yellow Alien (or similar) before returning to the water streak for 6 more bolts of excellent slab climbing.

Descent: Rap the route with a single rope.