Type: Trad, 55 ft (17 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 149 total · 6/month
Shared By: Miles Johnson on Mar 4, 2023
Admins: Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz

You & This Route


1 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Left On Red runs up pretty direct line on the left, southern portion, of the Crucible Slabs. The Crucible Slabs are south of Upper Mount Scott, below pirates landing, and north of the harder Crucible climbs. Some of the Crucible Boulders like Centipede Daycare sit at the foot of these slabs.

Start Left On Red by climbing a right facing slab corner with incut slots for perfect jugs and protection. Use toe jams for an extra hand to make this section an enjoyable cruise. Now at the horizontal cutout place some hand sized gear, double up if you don’t like the idea of runout whips, and step left onto the small platform.

Eye the thin incipient crack with a few nodes at useful intervals (likely old aid scars), and reach way left to a jug and swing out onto the slab face. Work up to some slots and gain meaningful pro. Enjoy a little buzz of a runout and tenuous footwork for the grade before earning your next good node. Plug gear and you might as well get the small nuts, micro cams, and ball nuts ready.

Work up the thin fissure and slot micro gear where you can depending on your rack - if nothing you have fits you’ll need to run it out to the top on a soft PG. With a micro rack this carries no rating.

Location Suggest change

Left side of Crucible Slabs which is south of UMS, beneath Pirates Landing, and north from the harder Crucible Climbs, Blood Pact and Gimme Your Lunch Money.
(34.7444444, -98.5290364)

Protection Suggest change

BD0.5-BD3, micro cams 0.1-0.2, 0.25, small brassies or small nuts.

Photos

0 Comments