Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | link-up: Dave Vuono & Kate Kelleghan |
Page Views: | 284 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Dave Vuono on Feb 26, 2023 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
Lost at Sea is a link-up of all the original bolted/mixed pitches on Cynical Pinnacle.
Pitch 1: (12a) 100'. Begin up the first two pitches of Green Piece (incorrectly called Green Project in the Haas guide). There is a runout at the beginning that gives the grade an R rating but the spacing between bolts lessens some as the climbing difficulty increases. The bolts are sometimes hard to reach from the obvious stances if you're short, and falls might be safe but big. Gear: quickdraws/runners and a #0.4-0.5 BD cam to protect the traverse at the first horizontal break (Rising Crescendo).
Pitch 2: (12a) 140'. Traverse a few feet right off the belay, clip a relocated bolt, climbing through a crux. The climbing eases off after the second bolt, but the spacing between bolts increases. Towards the top, traverse left to the anchors. Gear: quickdraws. Linking pitch 1 and 2 is 5.12b.
Pitch 3: (11-/c). (Wade: sound good?) Begin up a newly bolted line of nicely spaced bolts called 50 Shades of Green. Climb to the first horizontal break, and traverse down and right, past Turf Spreader and to a gear belay and stance. Gear: #1.0 to protect the traverse.
Pitch 4: (11c). Climb Tough Turf moving up and right in an easy dihedral. Break off the dihedral to a hand crack on the left wall. Climb the crack until it leads you back onto the south face. Follow a meandering route on the bolted arete in a great position to the shoulder of the pinnacle. The rock quality is a little more crumbly on this pitch - tread carefully. Gear: #0.5-1.0 BD.
Pitch 5: (11b). Finish on Class Act. Start in a vertical finger crack on the left side of the ledge, and move up and right to a diagonal crack/seam, using face holds and fingerlocks, passing two manky pitons. Reach the first bolt, and follow a pumpy sequence to the summit.
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