The Treasure of the Sierra Ancha

Sometimes the endless search for good new routes makes you feel like a modern prospector searching for gold amongst all the dirt, and I definitely feel like I struck it rich with this cliff and line!

A very fun 3 pitch line featuring high quality climbing following a seam up the middle of the Arizona Tepui. 

Would be 4 stars but for the 30' section of sub-par rock in the first half of pitch 1. However, the rock higher up is bullet hard, featured, and extremely pleasant to climb on, very much unlike the sharp and/or crimpy climbing characteristic of most of central and southern Arizona’s rock.

Pitch 1, 5.11-, 110’. Start from the notch between the Arizona Tepui and unclimbed mini tower in front of it. 30 feet of unprotected 5.7 climbing leads to a 7 bolt sequence through an overhang on some fragile crimps—unfortunately the lowest quality rock on the route. Past the bolts, the rock quality improves tremendously. Follow the seam, placing spaced small gear, and doing several 5.10 mantels, including some well above your gear, ending at a nice ledge with a bolted anchor.

Pitch 2, 5.11, 110’. Pass a few bolts and some gear placements until the route steepens and a thin, steep crack appears. Jam up the crack, enjoying the footholds on the face, and turn the corner to a larger, but low-angle crack, finishing on a huge ledge with a bolted anchor.

Pitch 3, 5.8, 100’. 4th class ramp at the start, head left to yet another mantle onto a ledge, clip a bolt, and bust out one final mantle on suspect-looking, but actually bomber rock, then cut back right to the summit anchor.

To descend, rappel each pitch. A single 70m rope works great for the rappels. A 60 might just work but I haven’t tried this.

Start in the notch between the Arizona Tepui and the Boot Spur. Bolts at the start.