All Locations > Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Broverhang

Controlled Chaos

Name: Controlled Chaos
Rating: 2.0

5.13c YDS 8a+ French 30 Ewbanks X- UIAA 31 ZA E7 7a British PG13

Routes in Broverhang

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bro Bunnnzzz S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Controlled Chaos S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
	Double D's S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Forget Me Knots S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	J.A.M.P.B S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	See Cups S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

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Type:	Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
FA:	Ben Lindfors, Feb. '23
Page Views:	194 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Layton B on Feb 8, 2023
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!

Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31

Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…

Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 1 (MM 270, W of Tunnel 1). Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 2 (E of Tunnel 2). In 2016, the closure WAS lifted June 9 for ONLY the 2016 season, per Eric Krause, JeffCo OS Ranger. Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.

Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:

Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves

Access Issue: Private Property - be aware & respectful Details

Per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward, check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.

Description

Scramble up the 20 foot slab to the left of the Broverhang, then stem out right to get established below the 45-degree roof. Launch into a 12 foot, V9ish boulder problem using a left-facing rail. Make a hard move to a massive jug at the lip, and finish with a tricky mantel below the anchors.

As for the grade, Ben said "It's about two grades harder than Double D's".

I recommend stickclipping the first two bolts.

A lot, but not all, of the choss was cleaned off the 20 foot slab to the left of the Broverhang. Please use caution when scrambling up it.

If you fall clipping, there is potential to hit either the top of the slab on the left or the slab on the right. If you fall and there is a good amount of slack in the system, there is potential for the same. Bring a good belayer.