Forgotten Land
WI5- M6+
Avg: 4 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, 4 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 476 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | Doug Hutchinson on Feb 6, 2023 |
Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
Description
This climb doesn't form often, but when it does it should not missed. Several mixed pitches lead to a spectacular final ice pitch.
P1 - Start in a corner about 15M right of the ice pitch above. Climb up 20M and traverse left on ledge to a bolt anchor. ~35M, M5+
P2 - Climb straight up the corner crack about 15M to a roof crux with bolt (actually two bolts 6" apart). Another 15-20M leads to a bolt belay just left of a large tree, belay here or head straight to belay left of ice chimney. ~35M, M6+
P3 - Assuming belaying P2 top near tree, head up verglas ledges up and right until able to traverse left under ice chimney to belay under roof. 15-20M
P4 - Head up into wild ice chimney and continue up fatter ice to tree at top, an incredible pitch. 60m, WI5-
Descend P4 in two 30M raps due to rope drag. A better option would probably be for someone to sling a large tree up and left from ice top out and rap directly to P4 belay.
Location
Drive about 30km east of Saskatchewan Crossing on Hwy 11 and park in the pull off to Cavalcade campsite, or on the other side of the hwy a little closer to the Crossing. The climb is easily visible. Walk directly up to it, approach takes about 90 minutes. This area has many decorated ceremonial grounds that should be bypassed on the approach.
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