Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 703 total · 25/month
Shared By: Thomas Beatty on Jan 23, 2023 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Warning Access Issue: Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This follows a less-traveled route to the summit of Long's Peak, making it the "mountaineer's" alternative to the far-too-busy Keyhole Route. There used to be a painted arrow marking the route, but it was lost due to flooding in 2012. The views of the East Face during the hike to Chasm Lake make up most of the hype for the route, but it is a better routefinding challenge than having bullseyes painted everywhere! Pairing the two routes, The Loft on the way up and Keyhole on the way down, makes for a terrific Tour de Long's.

Starting at the Chasm Lake privy, head south up a drainage. Contouring the base of the Ship's Prow (the large fin of rock to the climber's right), go uphill until you reach a cliff band. Scramble up left on the prominent ramp (creatively named The Ramp), passing over a large boulder on its right side. Follow cairns up and right to reach The Loft, a big open col between Long's and Meeker.

Crossing The Loft, look for cairns that mark the descent down into Keplinger's Couloir. Looking slightly uphill from the cairns, go northwest through a narrow gully. Going north, follow a ledge system into Keplinger's Couloir, below The Palisades. Just below The Notch (the top of the couloir), ascend climber's left above some slabs. Follow the Homestretch (the ramp used by the Keyhole Route that is no doubt mobbed by scramblers) to the summit.

Descent options include: descending the Keyhole Route; rapping the Cables Route; and going back the way you came.

Location Suggest change

From the Long's Peak Trailhead, take the Long's Peak Trail until Chasm Junction, where you head southwest following the Chasm Lake Trail. The route diverges from the trail at the privy. The approach in total is about 3.8 miles.

Protection Suggest change

You could short rope the Class 3 sections, but it would be slow.

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