Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Wade Morris, Cody Scarpella, Jesse Huey, January 14, 2023
Page Views: 277 total · 12/month
Shared By: WadeM on Jan 14, 2023
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

The Naked Edge has many variations that stay on the true arête. This is the last one the straightens everything out with only about 20-25 feet of new climbing, but this has a much different feel that the standard pitch.

This route is a variation to P2 of The Naked Edge. Head up the 5.8 slab, clipping 2 bolts as per normal, but instead of changing sides, climb straight up the arête. Utilizing thin crimper sidepulls for your right hand and with your left hand on the arête, use small foot holds and a heel hook to move up and right. Gain an okay stem stance, place a 0.5/0.75 offset (a 0.75 works fine), and head back and left to the P2 anchor on easier terrain. One could head up and right under that giant flake/gunsight at 5.9, but you would have to continue up through P3, as the gear is sparse and that puts the climber too far above the P2 anchor.

I explored trying to protect the thin flake that makes one of the thin crimpers, and although it doesn’t flex under body weight, it would maybe break with a fall.

I found no evidence of prior climbers. A microwave-sized block was cleaned off the route along with many smaller rocks.

Location Suggest change

It is a variation of the P2 of The Naked Edge.

Protection Suggest change

A standard Naked Edge rack is fine - 2 bolts, 0.5/0.75 offset. You can place a #1 on a runner on the standard dihedral that keeps you a little higher off the slab during a fall, but you’d still definitely hit the slab below.

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