Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Wade Morris, Cody Scarpella, Jesse Huey, January 14, 2023 |
Page Views: | 277 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | WadeM on Jan 14, 2023 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
The Naked Edge has many variations that stay on the true arête. This is the last one the straightens everything out with only about 20-25 feet of new climbing, but this has a much different feel that the standard pitch.
This route is a variation to P2 of The Naked Edge. Head up the 5.8 slab, clipping 2 bolts as per normal, but instead of changing sides, climb straight up the arête. Utilizing thin crimper sidepulls for your right hand and with your left hand on the arête, use small foot holds and a heel hook to move up and right. Gain an okay stem stance, place a 0.5/0.75 offset (a 0.75 works fine), and head back and left to the P2 anchor on easier terrain. One could head up and right under that giant flake/gunsight at 5.9, but you would have to continue up through P3, as the gear is sparse and that puts the climber too far above the P2 anchor.
I explored trying to protect the thin flake that makes one of the thin crimpers, and although it doesn’t flex under body weight, it would maybe break with a fall.
I found no evidence of prior climbers. A microwave-sized block was cleaned off the route along with many smaller rocks.
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