Type: Ice, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
FA: Zaugg, 2022
Page Views: 141 total · 6/month
Shared By: mike d on Dec 31, 2022
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

High in a wild gray amphitheater, three distinctive flows rear above an improbably massive slab of low-angle ice. The rightmost of these spills from the east bowl of Blackwall Mountain. To reach the top in a 60m pitch, it is necessary to climb at least halfway up the slab. Probably best done as two pitches:

P1, 50-60m. Climb all the WI2 to rig a sheltered belay behind the pillar.

P2, 30-40m. Climb the short pillar and continue up easier, thinner ice to top out near a small tree on left.

To descend, make a long rappel off the tree if it still exists, then downclimb or rappel the rest of the slab.

The neighboring flows seep out of the porous rock and may offer exciting thin or mixed climbing.

Location Suggest change

This is located below the east bowl of Blackwall Mountain, one drainage north of Dragon's Tail. Hike west over the pass from North Henson, descend to the creek, and take the path of least resistance down to the bottom of the drainage at 10,900'. Hike up the drainage into the amphitheater. Or, hike north above the cliffs from the top of Dragon's Tail and descend steeply into the next drainage. Either way, it's half a mile from the other route and roughly 3 miles from the end of North Henson.

This route occupies an avalanche death funnel.

Protection Suggest change

Two ropes, a standard ice rack, and a v-threader.

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