Black Bear Country

On pvt land and closed to public and climbing. See COMMENT. 

The problem: Stand start at the good edges on the far right side of the face around head height. Move left into the diagonal rail, heading for the horizontal rail to the left of that, and then the top. This climb does not use the arete. Call it an eliminate if you want but it didn't feel that way to me, because you are drawn to the holds on the face and away from the arete.

The backstory: I'm listing this for Dennis Daniels, who spent two full years cleaning up and projecting this dream line. You can read about his abundance of psych in the note he left at the local rock gym (Evo Portland), included in the photos here. I was skeptical about his claims but headed out to check it out anyway. After climbing it I have to say I agree with Dennis - the movement on this thing is awesome. Of course, the rock quality isn't great and can be a bit crumbly in places, but overall this problem is worth the effort to find it.

GPS location: 44.08379, -71.16917

Easiest way: follow the map on page 310 of the North Conway Rock Climbs 2nd Edition guide to the boulder with a problem labeled "Serendipity V6/7." Serendipity is a different problem on other side of the same boulder.

Longer description: park as for Humphrey's Ledge. Go into the woods to the boulders and go left until you get to the stream. Follow the stream for 4-5 minutes until eventually crossing it and heading left towards a cluster of boulders you should be able to see under "the bluff," a small cliff band southwest of the left side of Humphreys. This boulder is the farthest left at the bottom of the hill, right next to a small pond.

3-4 pads and a spotter recommended