All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Potash Rd > Wall Street

The Importance of Being Varnished

Name: The Importance of Being Varnished
Rating: 2.2

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Wall Street

L › R R › L A › Z

	"Big Corner" T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	30 Seconds Over Potash T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	90 Paces S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	A Fistful of Potash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Ananab S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Another Roadside Distraction T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Arc Angel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Armageddon S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Astro Dad T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Astro Lad T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Baby Blue T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Bad Moki Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bad Moki Roof T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Bad Moki Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Banana Peel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Best Route Ever T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Beyer Offwidth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Big Sky Mud Flaps S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Blowing Chunks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Bolts to Bumpy Land S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Broken Engagements 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3
	Brother Crow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Brown Banana S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Brownie T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
	Campground Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Chaco-late Chunk S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Chemistry T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	ChrisCross TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
	Coup D'etat T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Dark Horse S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Desp-Arete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
	Devil in Disguise T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Diplomatic Immunity T A3
	Dr Strange Flake T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Dunn Copeland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	East Of Wrath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Eat the Rich T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	El Cracko Diablo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	El Face-o Diablo S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Enigma Campground Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Eyes of Falina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Faith Flake T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Fernando S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Fist Full of Potash Direct TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
	Flakes of Bongo TR X
	Flakes of Wrath T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Flakes of Wrath Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Frogs of a Feather T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Good, The Bad, and the Potash, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Grama and the Green Suede Shoes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Gumby Gulley T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Half Pipe T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Hidden Message S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	High Desert Drifter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	High Over Datura S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Holey Moley S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Horizontal Mambo T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	I Love Loosey S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Importance of Being Varnished, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Jacob's Ladder S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
	Jaywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Jingus Launch T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
	Jug Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Junk In The Trunk T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Just Another Pretty Face S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Knapping With The Alien S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Lacto Mangulation T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Last Tango in Potash T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Light of the World S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Lip Balm Addict T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Little Tufa's T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Lizard Skills S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Lucy in the Sky with Potash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Main Stream S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Man After Midnight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Mephistopheles T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Midnight Frightening T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Mini Me T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Mini Skirt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mississippi High Step S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Mother Trucker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Neopolitan S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Nervous in Suburbia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	No Fly Zone T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Pedigree Poodles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pinhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Points West T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Potash Bong Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Potash Sanction T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Potstash S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Pounding the Frog S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Pounding The Frog Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Pounding The Frog Redirect T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Practical Religion S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Puppy Love T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rain Catcher T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Ralph the Rat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Reflektor T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Rhino Might S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Right Side In T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Right Way, The S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Room With A View T A2+
	Room With A View (free) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
	Sand and Steel T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	School Room Slabs TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Schoolroom Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Schoolroom Layback T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Seam As It Ever Was T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Seamed like a good idea T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Seibernetics T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Shadowfax S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	She-la the Peeler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Shoot Up or Shut Up T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Shoot Up or Shut Up Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Skeletonic T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Slab Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Smoke Filled Rooms T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Snakes Slab S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Something Nasty T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Static Cling T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Steel Your Face S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Stego Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Stego Slab S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Summit Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Take A Chance On Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Tap Root S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Tastes Like Chicken S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tempting the Guillotine T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Tired of Talus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Top 40 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Treasure Trove Cove T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Twittin Shinkies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Two Sides of Purple, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Uncertain S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Under the Boardwalk S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Unemployment Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Unknown T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Visible Panty Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Wake of the Flood T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Walk on the Wide Side 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Warsteiner S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Welcome to Anexia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	White Way S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Willow Whip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Yogini S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Zig Zag S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

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Type:	Sport, 65 ft (20 m)
FA:	Herb Crimp, Jake Palmer, Ed Oak, Melissa Crimp, Andy Fontaine
Page Views:	393 total · 17/month
Shared By:	herb crimp on Dec 8, 2022
Admins:	slim, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Access Issue: Poop Alert! Details

Recently there has been a rash of human poops along Wall Street. There are bathrooms in the campgrounds a half mile from popular crags here. Use them. Otherwise, portable toilet systems are required in Grand County. Be prepared to carry human waste out on the trail.

Description

The importance of varnished rock will be abundantly clear on this one! Begin on the deep sand of Tap Root. Reaching out left on sandy features to clip the first bolt of Tap Root may feel like the crux. Continue straight up on better rock to the first of four glue-ins. A mantel past the first glue-in provides the crux. Easier climbing on good edges leads to the top. The route ends at glue-in anchors placed by another party (presumably to top rope the right facing corner immediately to the right).

Location

The Importance of Being Varnished is located on right side of the School Room Slabs. Begin on Tap Root. After clipping the first bolt of Tap Root, continue straight up clipping four glue-ins along the way.