Couloir Del'H

The classic of the Presanella / Monte Nero group. The line follow a beautiful, obvious couloir for ~500 meters of alpine fun. The first few pitches have some easy-moderate ice, followed by a loooong section of steep snow, and capped off by a few short jumps of mixed climbing. However, long sections of this climb are very hard to protect. Despite the moderate grade, this climb should not be underestimated, as protection can be thin and rare, and it is far away from any points of support. 

P1: Head straight up the large, obvious couloir for a few short sections of AI3. Depending on where you rope up and start climbing, the pitch should be about 60m. Depending on conditions and snow cover, it can be hard to tell where the pitch starts and ends. There are not many places for protection prior to the section of AI3, as the right wall is virtually blank. Bolt belay on the right wall after a section of steep ice AI3, 60m-ish.

P2-5?: continue along the couloir for some steep (50-65º) snow climbing. Depending on conditions, there may be some pockets of AI2 through here. There are a few opportunities for belays along the walls here. However, many parties opt to simu the steep snow until the fork. Once you reach the fork, anchor wherever you can. There is a rusty-looking piton on the right wall just prior to the bifurcation. If you can't find a good anchor, just below the mixed section of the next pitch there is a crack on the left wall that can take a few .5-.75 cams for an anchor. Steep Snow, AI2, 240m-ish.

Here the climb splits into a left and right brach. Most parties follow the right branch, and the beta is reported below. The left branch starts with a section of AI3-ish, followed by a hard-to-protect M3/3+ section, and a final snow slope. 

P5?: Follow the right branch of the couloir for some AI2-ish climbing, The couloir narrows considerably, eventually reaching a short mixed section. Climb the mixed section to reach easy snow, and find a bolt belay on the left wall. M3/3+, 30m-ish

P6: Continue along the couloir to find another mixed section. Climb the mixed jump (chockstone with sling for protection), and reach the easy snow slopes above. Two pitons on the right wall can be backed up with a cam and used for a belay. M3/3+, 30m-ish

P7?: Climb up the easy snow slopes for 70-90m. Either find somewhere to make an anchor at the base of the final rocky stretch or just continue to the exit. 60º snow, 70-90m

P8: Head up the final rocky steps to the ridge. There is a stuck cam on the right wall, and a two bolt belay. From the two bolt belay, it's only 5-10m of easy snow to the top, so there's no need to use it as an anchor. M2, length depends on if/where you decide to build your anchor. 

Descent: the Via Normale of Presanella. From the top of the couloir, head to the right towards the saddle between Monte Nero and Presanella. Head downhill from here, looking for the red and white markings of the Via Normale. When the slope becomes steep, look for the fixed ropes and pegs. At the bottom of the steep slope, move left towards the south face / ridge of Monte Nero. Maintain elevation, and look for cairns or red-and-white markings, and contour along the south side of Monte Nero. Eventually, gain elevation to reach the cables, which you use to climb Bocca Del Monte Nero. It is a good idea to keep your crampon on until you reach the north side of Monte Nero, as much as doing the via ferrata sucks with spikes on, the descent on the northside of Monte Nero is steep, snowy and sketchy. 

Climb the cables to Bocca Del Monte Nero, and descend along the cables back onto the north side. Once off the cables, follow the trail back to the 211 if its not buried in snow. If it is buried in snow, head vaguely east, following the terrain of the valley towards the moraine. There are a few pockets of glacier on the northside of Monte Nero after the cables, so be heads up. Meet up with the 211 on the moraine, and follow it back to Rif Segantini. About 3.30 hours of walking from the summit to Rif Segantini. 

Extra beta: 

Very good TR and Topo, but in Italian: https://www.nikobeta.net/high-altitude/couloir-h-monte-nero/

Another very good topo can be found in Presanella Rock & Ice by Francesco Salvaterra

Planetmountain.com

gulliver.it 

From Rifugio Segantini, follow the 211 for about 20 minutes. Eventually, leave the trail, cut right, and lose some elevation to reach the basin of Val d'Amola. There may be cairns marking where to turn, but it's a glacier moraine, and you're probably going to be approaching in the dark so don't count on it. Once in the basin, continue up the valle for about 1-1.5 hours to reach the base of Monte Nero, plus another 20-30 to gain the apron. About 2 hours walking from Rif Segantini.