Prospector Falls

Prospector Falls is perhaps the premier easy access winter ice route in the Tetons. Guidebooks will list the climb as four pitches (and speak of a mysterious WI4 pitch four), but I doubt the third and fourth pitch get climbed often, if ever. I have climbed this route twice and never seen the fourth pitch formed, and the third pitch is a mere WI2 formality to reach the fourth.

As it's most commonly climbed, Prospector Falls is a 2-3 pitch affair consisting of one rambling WI2 approach pitch, and one 70+M pitch (or two shorter pitches) on the stellar, commanding and aesthetic headwall easily spotted from the Phelp's Lake Overlook. The ice on the money pitch forms 15-20M fat and runs for a consistent rope-stretching dance of steep curtains, interesting bulges and convenient ledges. I have picked a convoluted line up the right side at WI3+, and climbed the main line at solid WI4/WI4-.

WARNING: Prospector Falls sits at the base of a very large and active avalanche path, the Apocalypse Couloir. Small avalanches also occur in the gullies above pitch two, and serious spindrift after storms is likely. Avalanche gear is strongly recommended !

Pitch One (WI2+, 30M): Belay from an alcove east of the toe of the falls to "avoid-ish" the Apocalypse Couloir avalanche path. Climb easy 60 degree ice to a short body length vertical bulge, and continue up a snow ramp to a fixed belay comprised of four rusty pins (or screw belay). This pitch will become increasingly buried with snow as winter continues.

Pitch Two (WI4, 70+M): The business! Pick your line up the main flow. The right side tends to form easier, but sustained stretches of vertical ice should be expected. Save extra screws, as the top of the ice cannot be seen from the belay. A fixed anchor is located on climber's right - a burly tree root with several slings, backed up by a nut. Consider an intermediate belay for 60M ropes, or be ready to simul.

Pitch Three (WI2, 60+M): Continue up dinky ice that may completely chock with snow by mid winter. A fixed anchor on climber's right is located just shy of 60M.

Pitch Four (WI3+, 70+M): After rambling on steep snow from the top of pitch 3 fixed anchor, head up the 40' iced filled gully (thin conditions on 12/2023) with excellent climbing. Depending on conditions, a small ice roof needs to be climbed with ample opportunity for stemming. Not as classic as P2, but it felt very "alpine" and the climbing was more interesting. Ramble up a long snow up the top to reach a tree anchor -- you might have to have your belayer start climbing depending on the length of the rope. There is a rappel anchor climbers far right of the ice flow for the descent (see photo).

Descent: Two 60M ropes are the absolute minimum required for retreat from pitch two. Tie knots, as you may quite literally hit said knot as your front points touch snow, and take care to rappel straight down from the anchors to maximize rope-length. Consider small nuts, pitons and extra cord to replace anchors as needed.

Prominent 70+M waterfall ice flow on wall directly east (looker's left) of the Apocalypse Couloir, visible from Phelps Lake Overlook. In early season, hike/ski to beneath The Snaz on Cathedral Rock (just past Sentinel Ice Couloir) and locate a dicy climber's bridge above Phelps Creek. Continue line of sight to the apron of the Apocalypse Couloir and base of the falls. In mid-winter, an approach is possible on the opposite side of the canyon by way of a frozen Phelps Lake, though take care of the many avalanche paths en route.